Dymotec Sidewall Dynamos and Lights
Only Busch & Muller makes a 12 volt dynamo that meets the German StVZO requirements for safe and efficient bicycle lighting system. The Dymotec S12 powers a 12 volt headlight and taillight. Available for either right or left side mounting. The headlight uses an extremely bright 5 watt halogen bulb. The rear lights (choose either fender mount Seculite Plus 12 or rear rack mount DToplight Plus 12) have two LEDs for 1.2 watt output. Drag in the S12 is about the same as in the Dymotec 6, due to a special negative feedback system that cancels out most of the electrical drag, leaving for the most part only the mechanical drag. You can only use lights and bulbs with "12" in the name, see below.
The Dymotec 6 is a moderately priced 6 volt sidewall dynamo, perfect for the rider who occasionally needs light at night.
The Dymotec S6 is a sophisticated 6 volt dynamo that uses a similar electronic circuit as the S12 to reduce drag. The S6 was discontinued a few years ago by Busch & Müller because a slow sales. I set a few aside to handle any warrantee claims and, since the S6 is so reliable, never had many claims. So we have 2 right side mount Dymotec S6 dynamos available, brand new in dusty packaging. Be aware that the S6 is not compatible with the newer LED headlights from Busch & Müller. The ideal headlight for the S6 is the Schmidt E6 OS halogen headlight. And of course it will work with any Busch & Müller halogen headlight, as well as any DLumotec LED headlight version. We have the Schmidt E6 in stock. We have no more DLumotecs. Also, Busch & Müller can no longer service the S6, so these are being sold with a 2 month money back warrantee.
Dymotec S6, 6 volt, right side mount: $100.00
Dymotec S12: Comes with 185cm dual strand wire and connectors a rubber roller mounted and two spare rubber rollers. The wire brush roller pictured on the S12 below is available separately; the S12 does not ship with the wire brush roller. It does not come with a mounting bracket. I stock the Dynamohalter seat stay mounting bracket for all Dymotec dynamos. There is no difference between brackets used with the 6 volt dynamos and lights, and those used for the 12 volt components.
The pressure of the roller against the tire is adjustable, enabling the rider to have the minimum amount of pressure needed to eliminate slippage. The lower the pressure, the lower the drag. Higher pressure may be needed in the rain, if you don't use the accessory wire roller. Since all tires are different, no one pressure setting would be ideal. So by allowing the pressure to be adjusted, you can have the lowest possible drag for your tire. Of course, best wet performance is had with tires having a dynamo strip. See my Schwalbe tire page for info on dynamo strips.
The Lumotec Oval Plus 12 headlight listed below projects a large and bright beam that lights up a large patch of the road ahead of you. People are amazed at how bright this 12 volt system is, as it provides all the light you need for just about any terrain, including fast descents. Of course, everyone's night vision is different, so be cautious your first time you do that screaming mountain descent!
in recent years, LED headlights have become available for 6 volt dynamos that are actually brighter than the 12 volt halogen headlight used with the Dymotec S12. So, why would anyone want the S12? Many older cyclists find that even though the newest LED lights are brighter than halogen, they still see better at night with a halogen headlight. A halogen bulb emits light of many wavelengths (colors) and is similar to daylight except for a bias towards the yellow. LEDs emit light only at discreet frequencies. In other words, there are gaps in the colors. This can make it difficult to see, particularly in the rain. So for older cyclists, it can be better to use an older halogen headlight, even if it's not as bright as the newest technology.
These are now being closed out, due to slow sales. The regular price was $300.00
B&M Dymotec S12: Price: $ 180.00
Should you spend more for the Busch & Müller S12? The S12 powers brighter lights than any 6 volt halogen system with one headlight. The S12 about the same drag as the Dymotec 6. Most people find the Dymotec 6 provides plenty of light. But the S12 is noticeably brighter. So if you're riding in heavy traffic, you may find the added brightness of the 12 volt system gets you more respect from automobile drivers. And it certainly lights up the road better for those screaming descents. If your riding includes lots of hills, the S12 is our brightest halogen system so you can see the road ahead at the greatest distance, giving you more time to react to what you're approaching. While the Schmidt E6 halogen headlight does have a slightly brighter extreme top edge to its beam, the Oval Plus 12 headlight produces a larger beam overall so you will see more of the road ahead. To get the same overall brightness from the 6 volt E6, you need two of them, and that means you need a hub dynamo, and that means you won't have the really big bright beam until you're riding at a much higher speed. The 12 volt S12 system gives you that big bright beam at a much lower speed than will two 6 volt headlights on a SON hub.
Lumotec Oval Plus 12 (12 volt) headlight and brackets for use with Dymotec S12 generators. Comes with single strand 185cm wire and connectors. Available now. The Oval Plus 12 looks identical to the 6 volt version, seen below.
Price: $ 76.12
5 watt (12 volt) halogen bulb for use with the Lumotec Oval Plus 12 headlight. Available now: $ 14.56
DToplight Plus 12 (12 volt) taillight for rear rack mounting. Use only with the Dymotec S12 dynamo. Available now: Wiring not included.
Price: $ 68.00
Seculite Plus (12 volt) taillight for rear fender mounting. Wiring not included. Available now. Looks identical to the 6 volt Seculite Plus.
Price: $ 51.00
The LED light is in the top clear section. The LED glows red. The reflector is below.
Scroll down this page for more small parts.
But what about these new LED headlights?
In the past few years, significant advances have been made in LED headlights. The newest designs are significantly brighter than older LED lights, and even brighter than the best 6 volt halogen systems. In fact, some are even brighter than the 12 volt Lumotec Oval Plus 12 made for the Dymotec 12. So why would anyone buy the Dymotec S12? The light from an LED has a slight blue tint to it. Side by side with a halogen beam, the halogen beam looks more yellow. And for many cyclists, particularly some of us old gezers, the yellowish beam is more useful. We can see more detail than we can with the bluish tinted light from the LED.
The Busch & Mueller S12 must be used with both a headlight and one of the 12 volt taillights I've listed below. Unlike the Dymotec 6, there is no viable option for running the S12 with a headlight only. The taillight must be wired to the headlight. If not, the headlight bulb will burn out quickly.
People frequently ask if their 6 volt Dymotecs and 6 volt lights can be upgraded to the 12 volt specifications. Unfortunately, this is not possible. Electronic overvoltage protection in all of the 6 volt lights will fail if powered by the S12.
Less expensive than the S12, The Dymotec 6 is very reliable and a good choice for riders with a short commute or limited budget. Available for either right or left side mounting. I use this on my Bridgestone MB-0 for zipping around town at night. The Dymotec 6 will power either a headlight with a 2.4 watt bulb and a taillight with a .6 watt bulb for a total of 3 watts, or it can power a single headlight with a 3 watt bulb. It can also power any 6 volt LED headlight I sell, with or without a taillight attached. Since the dynamo itself acts as the on/off "switch", you can use headlights without a switch, saving some money.
Dymotec 6 comes with a rubber roller, 185cm dual strand wire and connectors.
Price: $ 52.00
For riding in the rain, I recommend using the wire roller which as available as a small part. It attaches to the Dymotec 6 easily in a few seconds, just remove the rubber roller and install the wire roller. See the spare parts list below.
The Dymotec S6 has been discontinued. Please read this carefully! The dynamo that has been discontinued is the Dymotec S6, not the Dymotec 6 seen above. The S6 was a much more expensive dynamo with special electronics to reduce drag, such as is used in the 12 volt S12. Only the Dymotec S6 has been discontinued. The Dymotec 6 is still in production, and there are no plans to discontinue the Dymotec 6. Please do not confuse the Dymotec 6 with the Dymotec S6!
Also, if you own a Dymotec S6, and you are considering the purchase of a new headlight, be aware that the S6 is not compatible with any of the Busch & Müller IQ type LED headlights. It is compatible with the DLumotec series headlights, such as the DLumotec Oval Plus and DLumotec Topal. Since the Dymotec S6 was discontinued due to low sales before the IQ lights became available, the IQ lights were never designed for compatibility with the S6. So, if you have the Dymotec S6 and want to use an LED headlight, I recommend the DLumotec headlights.
I have not tested the S6 with any other LED headlights such as the Supernova, Inoled or Schmidt Edelux. And I no longer have an S6 available to run such a test. But the DLumotec Oval Plus works beautifully with the S6 and you can use it with confidence.
The wire roller is highly recommended for use in the rain, but does require precise alignment to avoid damaging the tire's sidewall. With the standard rubber roller, the dynamo's alignment is still critical. Not only will it increase the drag, it will result in the roller wearing out quickly. It makes sense to order an extra roller when you order any sidewall dynamo.
While you can mount the dynamo backwards, ideally the dynamo should be positioned ahead of the mounting point. In other words, if mounted on the fork, the dynamo should be in front of the fork, not behind it. In case the mount should come loose, the dynamo could jam between the spokes and the fork blade if it's mounted behind the fork blade, If it's mounted in front, it could bounce around some, but it's not likely to jam and cause a crash.
Similarly, if you will be mounting the dynamo to the seat stay with the Dynamohalter, it should be positioned ahead of the seat stay, within the triangle formed by the seat stay, the seat tube, and the chain stay. You can position it behind the stay, but you take the risk should the dynamo come loose.
Unless you alrady have a generator mount brazed onto your fork, you won't be able to use these generators on the front of your bike. But if your frame is made of steel, aluminum, or titanium, you can mount the Dymotec on the seat stay of your frame with the Dynamohalter mount. Not recommended for carbon fiber frames, since the Dynamohalter mount uses a set screw that presses into the frame a bit to keep the mount from rotating around the frame tube.Right or Left Side Mount?
When ordering your dynamo, you'll need to specify right side or left side mounting. The dynamo itself, (not the mount you purchase separately), is built specifically for either right side or left side mounting. And since this assumes the dynamo will be positioned ahead of its mounting point, those who choose to mount the dynamo to the rear on the right side, should choose a left side mount, since of course, everything is in reverse. For instance, if you're mounting the dynamo on the right rear seat stay, ahead of the stay, within the rear triangle of a standard bicycle frame, you would use a right side mount. But if you choose to place it behind the right seat stay, you would use a left side mount. If this doesn't make sense, don't hesitate to ask about this when you place your order.
Don't these dynamo lights Blow Up?
If you do a search on the internet for bicycle dynamo lighting systems, you will undoubtedly come across warnings about lights blowing out if you ride your bike too fast. This is true of systems designed back in the 1920s, and used on bikes such as Raleigh three speeds up through the early 1980s. These were very crude systems by today's standards. While you can still buy cheaply made dynamo lights that will blow bulbs on a downhill run, none of the systems I sell are so poorly made that you have to concern yourself with this. Without exception, every headlight I sell for use with either a hub dynamo or sidewall dynamo incorporates circuitry to prevent the overvoltage of the bulb. You have absolutely nothing to worry about.
The headlights for these dynamos do not require a switch since the system is turned on by moving the dynamo to contact the tire. By the way, it's that movement that determines whether a dynamo is right sided or left sided. So the more expensive switched Lumotec headlights that I sell for hub dynamos like the Schmidt SON are not needed. I stock many 6 volt halogen Busch & Müller headlights along with the Schmidt E6 6 volt headlight without switch for use with the Dymotec 6 generator, or any 6 volt tire driven dynamo. And we also have several headlights from Busch & Müller using an LED for extremely long life. I stock a 12 volt headlight and two 12 volt taillights for use with the Dymotec S12.
All sidewall dynamos can only be used with a single headlight. You cannot run two headlights from a sidewall dynamo. And with the Dymotec 6, you have the option of using a taillight wired to the dynamo, or just using battery powered taillights. The S12 must have a taillight attached.
All of the headlights I sell have circuitry to protect the bulb from burn-out at high speeds. All 6 volt halogen headlights ship to me with a 2.4 watt bulb installed, and are intended to be used with a .6 watt taillight. A 3 watt bulb is optional for the 6 volt headlights when used without a taillight. The 12 volt headlight ships with a 5 watt bulb. 5 watt bulbs cannot be used in a 6 volt headlight. 2.4 or 3 watt bulbs cannot be used in a 12 volt headlight. The LED headlights can be used with or without a taillight connected, and no changes are needed at the headlight. However, for the LED to last as long as possible, it needs to run cool, and to run cool a taillight should be connected. So I highly recommend use of a wired taillight with the LED headlights.
The Lumotec Fly has a very robust mounting point, to help withstand damage if the light is impacted. This is particularly helpful if you prefer to mount the light at the fork crown. Many bikes are set up to allow the handlebar to turn far enough that a headlight mounted at the crown will hit the downtube. This can damage many headlights. The Fly can still be damaged this way, but it takes a much harder impact. It's also easier to adjust the vertical aiming of the beam. This headlight is available in two versions for sidewall dynamos; with and without a standlight. The Lumotec Fly Plus has the standlight, which is a small LED which lights up when the bike stops and stays lit for six or seven minutes.
Given the robust construction, ease of adjustment, and moderate price, this has to be considered the best value in a halogen headlight.
Don't confuse the Lumotec Fly with the Lumotec IQ Fly, below. The IQ Fly uses an LED for the primary light source. The Lumotec Fly uses a 2.4 watt halogen bulb.
Lumotec Fly: $ 20.00
Lumotec Fly Plus: $ 22.00
Lumotec (6 volt) headlight for use with Dymotec 6 (round). Comes with single strand 185cm wire and connectors.
Price: $ 16.00
2.4 watt halogen bulb is standard. A reflector surrounds the lens for added safety. Add $2 to change to a 3 watt bulb. No brackets are provided with the round Lumotec headlights, but are sold separately. We have replacement lenses for the Lumotec.
Lumotec Plus (6 volt) headlight for use with Dymotec 6 (round). Comes with single strand 185cm wire and connectors.
Price: $ 32.00
2.4 watt (6 volt) halogen bulb is standard. A reflector surrounds the lens for added safety. Add $2 to change to a 3 watt bulb. No brackets are provided with the round Lumotec Plus headlights, but are sold separately. The Lumotec Plus adds a capacitor and an LED. The capacitor is charged while you ride. When you stop, the capacitor powers the LED for several minutes to help others see you while you're stopped at intersections. The LED is not nearly as bright as the halogen bulb. But it's plenty bright enough for drivers to see that you're there.
We have replacement lenses for the Lumotec Plus.
For the most tightly focused beam of any bicycle headlight, choose the Schmidt E6B-OS. By concentrating the light, these place more light further down the road which is helpful at high speeds. Some people will prefer a larger patch of light on the road, so a wider beam such as the Lumotec and Lumotec Oval (above) may be preferable. Also, see the new Busch & Müller LED headlights below.
The Schmidt headlight uses the same optics as the now discontinued BiSy headlight, which has been replaced by the E6B-OS
This is the Schmidt E6-OS headlight. The optics are the same as the BiSy, but it is easier to replace a bulb and is more ruggedly constructed. The E6 does not come with wiring or connectors. You need to purchase those separately. See below.
Price: $ 97.00
The E6 should be mounted on the handlebar since it is too heavy for the Lumotec brackets. Use the R&M bracket. See below.
The E6 (6 volt) headlight has a tighter beam pattern than the Lumotec's. It has no built-in reflector. It also lacks the capacitor and LED standlight option. When you stop, you have no light. The E6 optics are superb for fast riding. But if you use them, you might also consider having a battery powered LED headlight for added safety at intersections.
The E6 uses the same halogen bulbs as the 6 volt Busch & Müller headlights above. It can be used with a taillight or without. With a taillight, use a 2.4 watt bulb, just as with the Lumotecs. Without a taillight, use a 3 watt bulb. There is no 12 volt version of the E6.
The Lumotec Oval and Oval Plus halogen headlights include brackets for mounting on the fork crown with either caliper brakes or cantilever brakes. The DLumotec Oval LED headlights come with a bracket for mounting at the fork crown using caliper brakes. To use a cantilever brake, a separate bracket must be purchased. All brackets for the round Lumotec, Lumotec Plus and E6 must be purchased separately. The heavier E6 should be used with the Oval Plus brackets or with handlebar mounts. But since the Oval Plus brackets are short, the E6 beam may not clear the tire. Only use them if your fork is very tall. All headlights can be mounted on the side of the fork.
Add $ 2.00 to substitute a 3 watt bulb if the headlight will be used without a wired-in taillight. The 3 watt bulb is not significantly brighter than the 2.4 watt bulb. The 3 watt bulb only exists because it can be difficult to mount a wired taillight on some bikes. The bulb protection circuitry in the headlight is designed for a 2.4 watt bulb and a .6 watt taillight attached. If you use the system without a taillight, the 2.4 watt bulb will not last very long. That's why I offer the 3 watt bulb. This only applies to 6 volt systems. 12 volt systems must use a taillight.
The Lumotec Plus, Lumotec Oval Plus and DLumotec Topal Plus have a capacitor and an LED; their "Standlight". The capacitor stores electrical energy while the generator is spinning. When you stop, and the halogen bulb or primary LED in the headlight goes out, the capacitor supplies electricity to the small LED, giving you six to seven minutes of light. The light isn't bright enough for you to see the road by, but is bright enough for others to see you. The E6 does not have a standlight. The Standlight LED is much smaller and not nearly as bright as the LED headlight in the DLumotec headlights. So don't be confused about this when you see a reference to some headlights having an LED. Unless a Busch & Müller headlight has the letter "D" at the beginning of its name, the primary light source is a halogen bulb. So, a Lumotec Plus has a halogen bulb for the headlight, and a small LED for the standlight. The DLumotec Oval Plus has a large 1 watt LED as the headlight, and it uses that same LED, just powered down, as the standlight. The DLumotec Topal Plus uses a large 1 watt LED as the headlight, and then a smaller LED as the standlight.
New for 2012, the Lumotec Classic Plus is styled much like the dynamo headlights of the 1950s. But the internals are all modern, using the LED, optical system and electronics of the Lumotec Lyt headlights. The Lumotec Classic Plus ships with a fork crown mount that's suitable for caliper brakes, disc brakes or V brakes. If you have cantilever brakes, you can use the same cantilever mount as the Lumotec Fly and Lumotec IQ Fly.
The Lumotec Classic Plus headlight can be used with or without a 6 volt wired taillight. And of course it has a standlight.
Lumotec Classic Plus headlight, Part # B&M1786CDi: $ 56.50
B&M Fly Cantilever Mount, part # B&M474DUPB: $ 5.50
Lumotec IQ Fly Plus
New for 2008, the IQ Fly uses a new optical system and brighter, more efficient LED than the DLumotec. While the DLumotec is not recommended for fast descents, for many people the Lumotec IQ Fly will make descending hills at night a lot less scary. You can see much further ahead of you than with the DLumotec. If you're not riding in hilly terrain, you may prefer the more diffused beam of the DLumotec to the IQ beam, which puts a lot of light in the focused patch, but virtually no light outside of that focused patch. Fear not, there is plenty of spill light outside the focused patch, so that others will see that you're coming, even if the light isn't pointed at them. It's just that the difference in brightness, from your point of view, between the road that has light focused on it, and the rest of the road, is pretty dramatic with the IQ Fly headlight. That contrast can be an issue for many cyclists. However, if you also ride with a helmet light, which you can point wherever you need to, this should not be a problem.
These LED headlights can be used with or without a wired taillight, but the LED will last longer if you use a wired taillight. The LED will get hotter if there is no taillight attached.
As with all Busch & Müller lights, the "Plus" designation indicates the light has a standlight, which provides light for several minutes after you stop, powered by a capacitor that is charged while you are moving. Standlights in a headlight are never as bright as the running light. However, in a taillight, the standlight is just as bright as the running light.
Lumotec IQ Fly Plus: $ 57.00
Do not use with a Dymotec S6!
Lumotec IQ Cyo (R) Plus
There are two new LED headlights for 6 volt sidewall dynamos. The Lumotec IQ Cyo Plus and Lumotec IQ Cyo R Plus. The IQ Cyo Plus has a beam much like the Lumotec IQ Fly, only brighter. It uses a different LED and has a heavier heat-sink to keep the LED running cooler, so the LED can run brighter.
The Cyo R Plus looks similar, but focuses the light differently. Thisl new design has a focused beam that's about the same brightness as the Lumotec IQ Fly, but focuses some of the LED's light below the main beam, so that it illuminates the ground closer to the bike, eliminating the dark patch between about 1 meter and four meters ahead of the cyclist. The LED is the same newer type that's also used in the IQ Cyo Plus, but since the light is spread out more, with some of the light focused closer to the cyclist, the light at a distance isn't as bright as with the IQ Cyo Plus, but instead is the same as the Lumotec IQ Plus, shown above. I'll have photos of the beams up on this page as soon as the Cyo arrives, which should be late in November, 2008.
So, why would you choose one or the other?
If you ride on rough roads, with lots of potholes or glass, you'll benefit from the "R" version with the taller, more spread out beam. If you ride in hilly areas and like to ride fast down the hills, you'll benefit from the brighter light at a distance provided by the IQ Cyo Plus. Let's face it, at thirty MPH you won't be able to do anything about what's ten feet in front of you. But if you can see it more clearly when it's one hundred feet in front of you, that could be a big help.
Both versions have a Standlight, so they have the "Plus" designation in their names. The IQ Cyo R Plus has a reflector built into the front of the light. The brighter IQ Cyo Plus has no reflector, so for use in Germany you would need to add a separate reflector, lest the authorities haul you off to the slammer. ;-)
The chrome plated bracket that ships with the Cyo lights is suitable for most forks using V brakes or disc brakes. But the vertical section at the bottom of the braket is too long to work with most forks on racing bikes. So another mount will certainly be needed if you will be using this on a racing style bike. The R&M handlebar mount will probably be best for most riders.
Lumotec IQ Cyo Plus (brighter, with smaller beam): $ 60.00
Lumotec IQ Cyo R Plus (less bright, taller beam): $ 60.00
If you have a hub dynamo, see this page for all the IQ Cyo lights with switches.
Do not use with a Dymotec S6! However, the Dymotec 6 works fine.
All dynamo powered taillights are steady-on taillights. They have no flashing mode, unlike many battery taillights, since flashing taillights are illegal in Germany, where these lights are made. And for group riding, such as brevets, flashing lights can be quite annoying for riders behind you. All Busch & Müller taillights, whether battery powered or dynamo powered have built in reflectors, for added safety in the event of wire or battery failure.
The rack mount taillights all mount to a horizontal bracket with two holes either 50mm or 80mm apart. I sell these brackets for $ 5.50 to mount on racks without suitable mounts. The Tubus Cargo and Logo racks incorporate the proper mount for these lights.
The DToplight series have a superbright LED inside the center lens.
DToplight Plus (6 volt) taillight is now discontinued. It has been replaced by the DToplight XS Plus, which can be attached to either 50mm or 80mm mounts.
The new Busch&Müller DToplight XS Plus mounts on a rack with either 50mm wide studs or 80mm wide studs. Wiring not included. Available now: $ 36.00 This replaces the Dtoplight Plus.
Fender Mounted Dynamo Taillights
Fender mount taillights require two holes drilled in the rear fender. The holes should be 5mm in diameter, one above the other, 20mm apart. Care should be taken to mount the light so that the brightest part of the beam is at driver's eye level. Where you mount the light along the curve of the fender determines where the beam is aimed.
Seculite Plus (6 volt) taillight for rear fender mounting. Wiring not included.
Price: $ 29.50
The LED light is in the top clear section. The LED glows red. The reflector is below.
The Seculite Plus was designed to be mounted on a rear fender. But with the Cross Bracket, it can be mounted on a rear cantilever brake stud.
4DLite Plus taillight (heavy duty) for fender mounting (6 volt). Wiring not included. This light should only be mounted on sturdy fenders, such as the laminated SKS or the stainless steel Berthoud fenders. The black metal bar wraps around the light to help protect it from impacts. But this adds weight, which can shorten the life of very light weight fenders by causing cracks near the fender's supports.
Price: $ 32.00
The DToplight Plus, Seculite Plus, Seculite Plus 12 and the 4DLite Plus all have the same "Standlight" feature as the Oval Plus headlight, except that the light is as bright when you're stopped as when you're riding, since it's the same LED.
Battery Powered Taillights
The 4DToplight Permanent has four LEDs, two in the center and one each on each side of the reflector for increased visibility to the side. It looks the same as the DToplight Plus but has a switch on the bottom. When using a battery powered taillight with a halogen headlight, the 2.4 watt bulb in the headlight will burn out quickly. To eliminate this problem, a 3 watt bulb can be used in the headlight instead. When using an led headlight, no change is required if using a wired taillight or not.
4DToplight Permanent (6 volt) is powered by 2 AA batteries.
Price: $ 27.00
4DToplight Senso Multi
Looks the same as the 4DToplight Permanent, but can also be powered by any 6 volt dynamo.
Price: $ 44.50
For more information about Lumotec headlights, go to the Busch & Müller home page.
The Lumotec Oval and Oval Plus (both 6 volt and 12 volt versions) come with brackets for caliper brake and cantilever brake mounting.
Bulbs, Brackets and Doo Dads
2.4 watt Osram or Phillips (6 volt) halogen bulb, original equipment as supplied by Busch & Müller. $ 4.00
3 watt Phillips (6 volt) halogen bulb. The best bulb to use if you won't have a tail light wired to the headlight. $ 5.00
5 watt (12 volt) halogen bulb for use with the Lumotec Oval Plus 12 headlight. Available now: $ 14.56
My custom handlebar mount for Lumotec, Lumotec Plus, Lumotec Oval and Lumotec Oval Plus, Oval Plus 12, BiSy (discontinued) and Schmidt E6: $ 17.50
R&M handlebar mount: $ 17.50
Replacement lens for round Lumotec headlights: $ 5.04
Replacement lens for the round Lumotec Plus headlight: $ 12.06
Replacement lens for the Schmidt E6 headlight: $ 14.00
Replacement lens for the Seculite Plus Taillight: $ 4.56
Replacement lens for DToplight Plus Taillight: $ 4.56
Replacement lens for DToplight XS Taillight: $ 6.00
Dynamohalter generator bracket for seat stay mounting of Dymotec, $ 14.92
Note the little set screw on the right side. That digs into the seat stay just a bit to prevent the bracket from rotating on the round frame tube. If you're not willing to have your frame's paint damaged a bit where the screw digs in, don't use this bracket. The bracket will not work properly without the set screw. Also, don't use this on a carbon fiber frame.
This mount is made with commuting bikes in mind, not ultra lightweight racing bikes. I recently had a report from a customer who used this on an older steel racing frame, which apparently had been built with very thin tubing. The Dynamohalter crushed the seat stay. The two outside bolts should not have to be tightened with all of your strength to get the dynamo mounted securely. You must depend on the set screw to keep the Dynamohalter from moving on the round bicycle tube. Even the heavier tubing used on touring bikes can be crushed if you try to completely secure the Dynamohalter by the two outer bolts. And if your frame is a very light racing frame, be extra cautious.
The Dynamohalter will not work on tubing larger than 20mm in diameter! And it won't work on any fork I know of.
As of Dec 2010 I have a mount from Spanninga that enables mounting the Dymotec on a steel fork. $ 7.50
Use this only if you can't use the Dynamohalter mount on the seat stay. The Dynamohalter is stiffer, so it will hold the dynamo in place more rigidly.
Need some more wire?
Every dynamo comes with wire, as does every Busch & Müller headlight. The exceptions are the dynamo powered taillights, battery powered taillights, and the Schmidt E6B-OS headlights. We sell wiring separately, so you can carry a spare wire, or connect an E6. We have a single strand wire without connectors, single strand wire with a connector on one end, and we have a double strand wire with connectors on one end. The single strand wire works if you can use the frame to carry the ground. But many bikes won't conduct ground through the frame for a variety of reasons. For those bikes, we have the double strand wire; one side for power, and the other side for ground.
On some bikes, you don't need to run two wires from the dynamo to the lights. The dynamo can be grounded to the frame through its mount. Headlights and taillights can often get their ground connection through the frame. So often a single wire to the headlight and then to the taillight is all you need.
But there are some situations where you won't be able to do this. For instance, if you mount the dynamo on the front fork via the Dynashoe mount, the ground link would have to pass through the headset. With most headsets that's fine. But some headsets will not pass electrical current through them. Shimano cartridge bearing headsets, for instance, won't allow you to do this because the material used in the cartridges is an electrical insulator.
If you mount your headlight with either my custom handlebar mount or the R&M handlebar mount, it will not be grounded to the frame, and you will have to run a second wire. But that wire doesn't necessarily have to extend all the way to the dynamo. You could run a short wire to a metal part on the bike, like a brake bolt, and pick up ground from there.
Before placing your order, think about how you want to run the wires. If you have any doubts about whether the included wires will be sufficient, just ask. We'll figure it out together. It's best if you are near your bike when you call if you have questions about wiring.
Single strand wire, 185cm, connector on one end: $ 1.72
Double strand wire, 185cm, connectors on one end: $ 3.18
If you have a tandem, you'll need a longer wire than 185cm to reach from the front of the bike to the rear. We have a long spool of wire that we can cut any length you might need from, and then you just need some connectors. Loose wire costs $.25 per foot.
We also have a heavy duty coaxial wire available, either by the foot, or in pre-cut lengths of 190cm with connectors already attached. It's three to four times the cost of the wire sets above, but very tough. Even the silliest worry worts now have no excuse for not using a wired taillight. ;-)
3mm connector for dynamo, headlight, or taillight: $ 0.32
Since the 4DLite Plus and the Spanninga are heavier than the Seculite Plus, I don't recommend using them with the Cross Bracket.Spare Parts
For a full list of available light brackets, see the Light Mounts page.
Price: $ 11.10
Take care in aligning the dynamo when the wire roller is used. The wire roller can wear out the tire's sidewall quickly if it's not properly aligned. You want the roller "rolling" not "scrubbing" on the tire.
Price: $ 3.00
The new R&M handlebar
mount is longer to place the headlight below the top of the handlebar.
This is a Cronometro Nob. It makes it easy to mount a headlight in interesting places. See my page on mounting dual headlights powered by the Schmidt hub for one option. While these sidewall dynamos can't power two headlights, this will show you a good way to mount your headlight. $ 10.50
Front view of a Lumotec, mounted on my handlebar bracket, mounted on the NOB, held by fingers. Fingers are available separately.
Sorry, but I do not sell spare parts for other brands of sidewall dynamos.
See the Light Mounts page for a complete list of available mounts. We have many more mounts than what you see listed here.
How to Order
If your fork doesn't have a dynamo mount built in, you will have to use the Dynamohalter bracket mounted on one of the seat stays. You can mount it on either the right side or the left side. Don't use the Dynamohalter on a carbon fiber frame. You need to buy the dynamo for the side of the bike you want to put it on. There's a different version for right or left side mounting, and you can't change it. You either buy a right side version, or a left side version.
Then you need to decide where you'd like to mount the headlight. You can mount the headlight either at the fork crown, or on either fork blade, or up on your handlebar. I have mounts for putting the headlight directly over the front tire at the fork crown. Most bikes have a hole drilled in the fork crown and the bracket attaches with a bolt through that hole. If you don't have a hole there you can drill one. If you don't have a bolt to hold the bracket there, ask for one, since a bolt isn't included with the bracket for the connection to the frame. I usually have them available. If I don't, it's an easy part to get at any hardware store. A bolt is included with each bracket for holding the headlight to the bracket. I also have mounts for putting the headlight directly on your handlebar.
You also have the option of mounting a headlight on the side of your fork, using both my handlebar mount, and a handy little device called a Cronometro Nob. The Nob is intended for mounting a bicycle computer/speedometer on a triathlete type aero bar. It wraps around any tube and gives you a cylinder the same diameter as a handlebar. You mount the handlebar bracket onto the Cronometro Nob, and then attach the headlight to the handlebar mount. It sounds more complex than it is. See my page on this.
Then you need to decide if you'll be using a taillight wired to the dynamo. If so, you'll use the standard 2.4 watt bulb included with every headlight from the manufacturer. If you prefer to use a battery taillight, the bulb must be changed to a 3 watt bulb. All headlights are designed to have a 3 watt load. In Germany, where these are made, the law requires a headlight and a taillight. By law, the headlights are 2.4 watts, and the taillights are .6 watts. The circuitry in the headlights that prevents the bulb from burning out at high speed assumes a 3 watt load. So, if you would rather not run a wire to the back for a taillight and will use a battery taillight instead, you can't use the 2.4 watt bulb since it will burn out quickly. The 3 watt bulb isn't noticeably brighter than the 2.4 watt bulb, so don't decide on a battery taillight on that basis. If you choose a wired taillight, you have fender mount and rear rack mount types to choose from. The Seculite Plus fender mount taillight can also mount on a rear cantilever stud using the Cross bracket.
I recommend both a wired taillight and a battery taillight. That way, if your batteries fail, the wired taillight acts as a backup. Should a wire be damaged somehow, the battery taillight is there as a backup.
By the way, all dynamos come with wire. All headlights come with wire. But, not all taillights come with wire. So you may need to order wire separately for your taillight.
The dreaded fine print.
For many years, actually since the second Punic War, people have looked at their bicycle dynamos and wished they could use them not only for powering lights, but also various "Gizmos" such as cell phones, PDAs, GPS units, hair dryers, and Uranium PU36 Explosive Space Modulators. Finally, Busch & Müller has come to the rescue with the E-WERK, a battery charger that is powered by a 6 volt bicycle dynamo, and charges the batteries in your "Gizmo" of choice. It may not provide enough juice to help you blow up the moon (well, perhaps if you pedal really hard...) but it will keep your cell phone or GPS humming right along. I expect to have these available in November, 2009. You can download a PDF copy of the owner's manual here. Estimated price: $ 193.50
Some people want to make their own "Gizmo" charger, and may think that I'm just the person to help them design it. I guess they figure that since Peter is such a "know it all", he must know how to make a "Gizmo". Well, I hate to disappoint, but, I can't help you modify a Dymotec S12 to work with a windmill or waterwheel. And little Joey will have to do his own science project. I'm just a bike mechanic. ;-)
On the other hand, please don't hesitate to call or email (telephone is best, see below) with any questions about using or setting up the Dymotecs with the lights I sell, or with any other lights meeting the German StVZO regulations, in other words, any lighting systems legal for sale in Germany, which pretty much sets the worldwide standards for bicycle lighting. I will respond as soon as possible to all such queries.
For those who for whatever reason cannot use a taillight wired to the dynamo, a 3 watt bulb should be used in the 6 volt halogen headlights rather than the standard 2.4 watt bulb. The 3 watt bulb is not noticeably brighter than the 2.4 watt bulb. But since the overvoltage protection circuitry built into all of the halogen headlights I sell is designed for the 2.4 watt bulb together with the .6 watt taillight, (totaling 3 watts) if you eliminate the .6 watt taillight the bulb in the headlight will burn out quickly. Using a 3 watt bulb in the headlight puts the system back in balance, and gives you full run time on the bulb. For the 12 volt Dymotec S12, the only option is to use the system complete with a 5 watt headlight and 1.2 watt taillight. I have both fender mount and rack mount 12 volt taillights for the S12 dynamo. There is no higher wattage headlight option for the S12. Using the S12 with only a headlight will result in premature burnout of the 5 watt bulb.
If your headlight is an LED type, like the DLumotec Oval N Plus for example, it's best if you have a taillight attached, as the LED in the headlight will run cooler and will last longer. The Lumotec IQ Fly and IQ CYO can be used with or without a taillight with no effect on the headlight's LED.
For emergency use, any model Dymotec and associated lights should be all you need for safe riding after dark. But for extended use, I suggest you also have a small battery powered headlight and taillight as a backup. Although the Dymotecs have been extremely reliable, any mechanical device can fail, and if you're 5 miles from home in the dark, you'll be glad you have a backup light in the case of failure.
Busch & Müller make terrific battery headlights and taillights. The Busch & Müller Freelite D has the same efficient beam pattern as the Lumotec and Lumotec Oval Plus, brighter on top than the bottom, giving even illumination both far and near. Replacement bulbs are in stock for the Freelite D. However, the best battery headlight available is the Ixon from Busch & Müller.
The Busch & Müller Relite D is a very efficient battery taillight using LEDs. The Relite D has only a steady on mode, as it's designed to meet the German legal requirements for bicycle lighting, and those prohibit a flashing light. For riding in groups, flashing lights can be distracting to following riders. So the Relite D can be the perfect taillight for brevets. It also has a reflector, unlike many other taillights.
If you have a retail bicycle shop, or are a bicycle manufacturer, you can purchase Busch & Müller products, including dynamos, headlights, taillights, battery lights and mirrors at a discount for resale. Any shop in the US or Canada can purchase Busch & Müller products for sale in your store. Please call me for pricing. Peter White Cycles is an official representative for Busch & Müller the US and Canada, and we want all bicycle shops to be able to sell these products.
Where to Buy?
See this page for a list of bicycle shops that generally stock Busch & Müller, Schmidt, Pitlock, Supernova and Spanninga products, or can order them for you from us. If there's no shop in your area, you can of course order directly from us. See this page to order from us.
This page was last updated: Tuesday, June 25, 2013
Back to: Products page Back to: Peter White Cycles home page Mail to:
to use any of the email links on my website. If you can't see the links, you
can call us or send a fax. You can also type the address into your email software.
First, type the alias, "pjw". Then type the "@" sign. It's
above the number 2 on your keyboard. Then type the domain, "peterwhitecycles.com".
email address. I hope it works. Sometimes the volume of email is so great we can't get to it all.
For important communication, please phone, or phax. It's best to call before 4PM Eastern time since after that we're
either running around like headless chickens or at home ready to jump into
the pot. Under no circumstances should you place an order without first
reading this. This page updated:
Tuesday, June 25, 2013
Peter White Cycles
Back to: Products page
Back to: Peter White Cycles home page
Sometimes the volume of email is so great we can't get to it all. For important communication, please phone, or phax.
It's best to call before 4PM Eastern time since after that we're either running around like headless chickens or at home ready to jump into the pot.
Under no circumstances should you place an order without first reading this.
This page updated: Tuesday, June 25, 2013
Peter White Cycles