I hope to get back to frame building one of these days. But at this time I'm not taking frame orders. Building frames is pretty hard work, and my back is not in very good shape. So for now I'm assembling bikes using Rivendell frames.
I build Peter Jon White frames with the finest steel tubing available; Reynolds, Vitus, and True Temper. All frames are brazed with silver or bronze solder depending on the style of joint and the application. Lugs used are by Henry James. Fillet brazing of some joints is necessary when no lug is available for the type of joint required. Dropouts by Campagnolo, Shimano, Henry James, Vitus, Everest, and Breezer are used, again depending on the type of frame.
I use no stock geometry. There is no such thing as an "off the rack" Peter Jon White frame. All dimensions are determined after I complete a careful fitting of the customer. This doesn't need to be done in person. See my article on bicycle fitting. Comfortable fitting of frames for smaller riders is often difficult. I have found that using smaller than traditional wheel sizes can make for a much better fit. With smaller wheels, it is not nescessary to use a steep seat tube angle in order to fit a short top tube on a small frame. This prevents the common complaint I hear from shorter riders that they have too much weight on their hands and shoulders. Smaller touring frames can benefit from the popularity of mountain bikes by using the 26" ATB size rims. There are many choices in high performance road tires for 26" rims.
Is a Peter Jon White the absolute best frame money can buy and everyone will start
drooling when you pull up at the start of a club ride and women will swoon and
construction workers will whistle and you'll always have a tailwind and there really is a
Santa Claus? Oh, probably not. But if you want a bike that fits, and you want it to last,
and you want nice clean lug work, and you want it to handle in just a certain way, and you
don't like the look of welded construction, and you don't want the builder's name in
thirteen different spots on YOUR bike, and you don't give a hoot about this week's latest
and greatest technological advancement that makes last week's latest and greatest
technological advancement hopelessly obsolete, then a Peter Jon White frame might just be
Click on the image for a higher resolution photo. (53k)
A fully lugged, silver soldered road racing frame and fork costs $2250. Downtube
shifter bosses, all cable guides and any number of water bottle braze-ons and
the Dupont Imron color of your choice are included. There is an additional charge
for frames larger than 61 cm, certain frames smaller than 53 cm, or frame geometry
requiring fillet brazing.
Click on the image for a higher resolution photo. (68k)
Touring frames with fork start at $2300. That includes all the same options as with racing frames, and adds cantilever brake braze-ons and standard rack fittings. Touring frame designs can be optimized for heavy loaded touring, brevets, fast paced day rides, or anything in between. The complete touring bicycle shown (built in 1996) was designed for comfortable, long distance day touring with light loads. For carrying heavier loads, longer chainstays, a slacker head tube angle, fittings for a front rack and larger tires would be in order.
Click on the image for a higher resolution photo. (62k)
ATB frames are priced without a fork at $2100. This includes cantilever brake
braze-ons, and any assortment of water bottle, rack attachment, and fender attachment
braze-ons you require. ATB frames can be optimized for racing, comfortable long
distance off road touring, or anything you like. "Henry James" ATB
lugs and silver soldering provide a beautiful appearance as well as creating
a stronger joint than welded or glued construction. I can provide most brands
of suspension forks but I recommend the Rock Shox Judy with Englund air suspension
inserts. I do not build downhill or rear suspension bikes.
For whatever type of frame you need, I can build your complete bicycle from a wide assortment of components from manufacturers all over the world. I only build frames during the fall and winter, as spring and summer are just too busy with other parts of my business.
By the way, I frequently get email or phone calls from people who have seen one of my bikes or this web page. They tell me how much they like my frames and then sometimes ask if I build titanium frames or aluminum or plastic (oops I mean carbon fiber) frames. They also want to know how I weld my frames. Well, I don't build plastic or aluminum or titanium frames. And I don't weld. All of my frames are made of steel. All of my frames are brazed. Most of my frames have lugs. When I tell people this, they often want to tell me how wonderful titanium or aluminum or plastic (oops, there I go again) frames are. And they seem to get a bit confused when I don't share their enthusiasm for some new technological breakthrough in frame design or material.
Well, the truth is I couldn't care less if some other way of building bikes makes a lighter bike, or a faster bike, or a more modern bike. But don't misunderstand; I wish all of those folks riding bikes that are built in ways different from mine all the best. I'm truly happy for them. I'm just not interested. I didn't start building frames because I thought I had some great new technique or revolutionary design that would change bicycling forever.
I build my bikes the way I do because I like them this way. It's just that
Back to: Bicycles page
Back to: Products page
Back to: Peter White Cycles home page
Sometimes the volume of email is so great we can't get to it all. For important communication, please phone, or phax.
It's best to call before 4PM Eastern time since after that we're either running around like headless chickens or at home ready to jump into the pot.
Under no circumstances should you place an order without first reading this.
This page updated: Friday, December 26, 2014
Peter White Cycles
24 Hall Rd.
Hillsborough, NH 03244
603 478 0900 Phone
603 478 0902 Phax