Nexus NX-30 Dynohub

 

Available only in QR version without switch.

The Shimano Nexus NX-30 front generator hub will power a 6 volt headlight and taillight. Shimano made a switch (now discontinued) for the Nexus hub, allowing it to be used with low cost Lumotec and Lumotec Oval Plus headlights without switches.

Available only for 36 spokes with a quick release axle and skewer. These hubs are not being imported to the United States by Shimano, and are therefore being sold as-is. There is no guarantee, other than that they work when new, and replacement parts are not likely to be available. But at this price, and given Shimano's well deserved reputation for making reliable products, I believe it is a good hub for commuting.

Drag with the Nexus is higher than with the more expensive Schmidt hub. In fact, at most speeds the Nexus has higher drag when its light is turned off than the Schmidt has when its light is turned on. You get what you pay for. But the drag is less than with the Busch&Müller Dymotec 6 sidewall generator when the light is turned on. Because the hub also has some drag even with the light off, I don't recommend it for longer events such as brevets and long tours. For touring, the Dymotec sidewall dynamo would be a better choice, since in daylight, with the light off and the dynamo disengaged, there is zero drag, and most people don't tour by bicycle in winter, when snow will cause a sidewall dynamo to slip. Drag with the Schmidt hub is so low with the light off that it isn't an issue.

For winter commuting, the Schmidt or Nexus is a better choice than a sidewall dynamo, since those will slip when the tire is covered in snow.

The hub can power either a single headlight with a 3 watt bulb, or a 2.4 watt headlight and .6 watt taillight combo.

Don't these dynamo lights Blow Up?

If you do a search on the internet for bicycle dynamo lighting systems, you will undoubtedly come across warnings about lights blowing out if you ride your bike too fast. This is true of systems designed back in the 1920s, and used on bikes such as Raleigh three speeds up through the early 1980s. These were very crude systems by today's standards. While you can still buy cheaply made dynamo lights that will blow bulbs on a downhill run, none of the systems I sell are so poorly made that you have to concern yourself with this. Without exception, every headlight I sell for use with either a hub dynamo or sidewall dynamo incorporates circuitry to prevent the overvoltage of the bulb. You have absolutely nothing to worry about.


Nexus hub with bolt-on axle, no switch: Discontinued

Nexus hub with quick release axle, no switch: $65.00

Nexus wheel, (hand-built by yours truly) with Velocity Dyad or Aeroheat rim (700c or 26") and Wheelsmith 14-16G double butted spokes, no switch: $185.32 QR.

Nexus NX-30 switch; Discontinued

I have many other rims to choose from as well by Mavic and Velocity. Call for more wheel options.

Shipping a wheel within the lower 48 states ranges from $12 to $18 via UPS ground. Of course I can ship via air. Call for rates.

All of the headlights are available with either a 2.4 watt halogen bulb, or a 3 watt halogen bulb. If you will be using the system with a wired taillight, such as the DToplight Plus or Seculite Plus, you should use the 2.4 watt bulb in the headlight. If you'll be using the system with just a battery powered taillight, you should use the 3 watt bulb in the headlight. I stock spare bulbs; both 2.4 watt and 3 watt. Don't choose between the 2.4 watt bulb and the 3 watt bulb on the assumption that the 3 watt bulb will be noticeably brighter. It isn't. The 3 watt bulb is needed because the electronic circuitry in the headlight assumes a 3 watt draw from the dynamo. So if you use a 2.4 watt bulb in the headlight without a .6 watt taillight, the circuitry will not protect the bulb from excess voltage, and the bulb will burn out. First, decide whether you want to have a wired taillight, and if the wiring will not cause a problem on your bike. If you can use a wired taillight, by all means use the 2.4 watt bulb in the headlight, it will provide plenty of light. If you can't use a wired taillight, then get the 3 watt bulb in the headlight.

I do recommend that you use both a dynamo powered taillight and a battery powered taillight, if at all possible. If a wire should fail to the dyno powered taillight, the battery taillight is a backup. If your batteries fail in cold weather, the dynohub will still be working, and powering the wired taillight. Also, all of the dynamo powered taillights have reflectors, so even if both the wiring from the dynamo and your batteries should fail, you still have the safety of a rear reflector. Redundancy is good. Redundancy is good. Redundancy is good. Stop me, please!

Headlights

Whatever headlight you choose, it has to have a switch, otherwise the light will be on all the time, and you'll burn out the bulb sooner. Shimano makes a switch for use with the NX-30 hub. It mounts behind the fork crown using a bolt through the crown. The switch is wired to the hub, and your lights are wired to the switch. If you have caliper brakes with allen bolt fittings, the Shimano switch won't work. I have headlights without switches to use with the Shimano switch, and I have headlights with their own built in switches.

All Busch&Müller Oval and Oval Plus headlights come with two brackets; one for mounting on a fork with caliper brakes, and a second for mounting on a fork with cantilever or V brakes. I also sell other mounts to allow mounting the lights directly on the handlebar, or on either side of the fork on the fork blade.

Unswitched headlights

Use these with the Shimano switch, if you can find one.

 

Lumotec headlight with 2.4 watt halogen bulb: $ 17.00

Lumotec Plus headlight with 2.4 watt halogen bulb:

All lights designated "Plus" have a capacitor which is charged by the dynamo while you ride. When you stop, the headlight goes out. But then the capacitor provides power to a small LED in the headlight which helps others see you while you're stopped. This is an addded safety feature whuile you're stopped at an intersection waiting for a traffic light to change. The LED stays lit for up to seven minutes, depending on how long you've been riding before you stop.

$ 37.00
Lumotec Oval headlight 2.4 watt halogen bulb (includes fork crown mounting hardware for both caliper brakes and cantilever or V brakes):
$ 24.00

Lumotec Oval Plus headlight 2.4 watt halogen bulb (includes mounting hardware) looks identical to Lumotec Oval:

The Oval plus has the capacitor and LED for light while you're stopped.

$ 44.00

The BiSy (6 volt) headlight has a better beam pattern than the Lumotecs. The BiSy FL-SR has no built-in reflector. The BiSy headlights also have no capacitor and LED standlight option. When you stop, you have no light. However, the BiSy's optics are superb. But if you use the BiSy, you should also consider having a battery powered LED headlight for added safety at intersections. I recommend the Busch&Müller F-lite.

The BiSy uses the same halogen bulbs as the 6 volt Busch&Müller headlights above. It can be used with a taillight or without. With a taillight, use a 2.4 watt bulb in the BiSy. Without a taillight, use a 3 watt bulb. There is no 12 volt version of the BiSy.

The Lumotec Oval and Oval Plus headlights include brackets for mounting on the fork crown with either caliper brakes or cantilever brakes. Brackets for the round Lumotec, Lumotec Plus and BiSy must be purchased separately. The Bisy uses the same brackets as the round Lumotec.

Add $2 to the headlight price to substitute a 3 watt bulb (only if you won't be using a wired taillight).

Schmidt E6 OS headlight

This is the Schmidt E6-OS headlight. The optics are the very best you can get. The E6-OS does not come with wiring or connectors. You need to purchase those separately. See below.$ 97.00 There is a E6 headlight with a high quality built in switch. See below.

Use this and all other unswitched headlights with the Shimano Nexus switch, or make your own switch. Unfortunately, I cannot provide assistance for designing or manufacturiong switches. If you would rather not make your own switch, or use the Shimano switch, I have several headlights with switches built in.

 

Headlights with built-in switches

These eliminate the need for the separate Shimano switch. These headlights have more reliable switches from Busch & Müller.

Lumotec Oval Plus Senso headlight 2.4 watt halogen bulb (includes mounting hardware) looks identical to Lumotec Oval. The switch has three positions. On, Off, and Auto Sensing. The Auto Sensing position turns the light on when it gets dark:
$ 52.00
Lumotec N switched headlight. Built in slider switch. Otherwise the same as the regular Lumotec. Ships with a 2.4 watt bulb. If you won't be using a dynamo powered taillight, ask to have the bulb switched to a 3 watt version. This adds $2. to the cost.
$ 26.00
Lumotec N Plus switched headlight. Built in slider switch. Otherwise the same as the Lumotec Plus which has the lED standlight, powered by a capacitor.. Ships with a 2.4 watt bulb. If you won't be using a dynamo powered taillight, ask to have the bulb switched to a 3 watt version. This adds $2. to the cost.
$ 52.00

Schmidt E6 Headlight Primary 120 CM wire 2.4 watt:

Schmidt E6 Headlight Primary 120 CM wire 3 watt:

 

$ 109.00

$ 111.00

 

 

 

Taillights

All taillights use LEDs for long life and reliability.

DToplight Plus LED taillight for rear rack mounting,
(use with 2.4 watt Lumotec); $ 24.50

Seculite Plus LED .6 watt ligtweight taillight for mounting on fender,
(use with 2.4 watt Lumotec) Can also be mounted on a rear cantilever stud with the Cross bracket.
Seculite Plus: $ 30.00

Cross Bracket for mounting Seculite Plus on a cantilever stud: $ 4.25

4DLite Plus LED .6 watt taillight for fender mounting (use with 2.4 watt Lumotec). Has a steel bar for protection. Too heavy for mounting on a Cross Bracket. $ 36.00

Spanninga LED battery powered taillight for mounting on fender
(AAA batteries not included); $ 30.00

WHAT! You don't have fenders! See my Gilles Berthoud stainless fenders.

4DToplight Permanent battery powered taillight for rear rack mounting. Two super bright LEDs in the center and one LED on each side provide a very bright light for drivers to see you by. And the large reflector area keeps you safe if the batteries fail. AA batteries not included. Use a 3 watt bulb in the headlight.

4DToplight Permanent: $ 29.00

4DToplight Senso battery powered taillight is identical to the 4DToplight Permanent, but has a 3 position switch. The third position sets the light to come on automatically when it gets dark. This is a great benefit when you ride through a tunnel. Use a 3 watt bulb in the headlight.

4DToplight Senso: $ 40.00

4DToplight Senso Multi adds the ability to be powered by the dynamo hub, in addition to battery power. Use a 3 watt bulb in the headlight.

4DToplight Senso Multi: $ 44.00

 


Busch&Müller DIWA Plus system

The new Distance Warning, or DIWA system for hub dynamos from Busch&Müller senses when the bike slows down. When riding at night with your lights on, the taillight will glow brighter, just like the brake lights on an automobile. In the daytime with the lights off, the taillight will come on just as a car's brake lights would. The DIWA headlight and taillight must be used as a system, though they are available separately for replacement in case of damage to one or the other. The headlight is otherwise identical to the Lumotec Oval Plus, and the taillight is otherwise identical to the DToplight Plus. There is no option for mounting the taillight on a fender, it's only for mounting on a rear rack.

Lumotec Oval DIWA Plus headlight: $ 91.00

DToplight DIWA Plus taillight: $ 67.00


 

See my Dymotec and Schmidt pages for my large assortment of mounting brackets and other dynamo lighting options. Go here for all of the Light Mounts. And here's a page which lists most dynamo powered headlights.

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This page updated: Wednesday, October 10, 2007

Peter White Cycles
24 Hall Rd.
Hillsborough, NH 03244
USA
603 478 0900 Phone
603 478 0902 Phax