Pitlock locking skewers


Pitlock Set 02 for wheels and seatpost binder. Some bicycle wheels are pretty expensive. You can easily pay $600 for a set of racing wheels or heavy duty touring wheels. A front wheel for a dynamo lighting system can cost well over $300. A Rohloff 14 speed hub alone will set you back $1,000 or so. While most bicycle thieves don't know the difference between a SON hub and a Wald steel bolt-on hub, they do know that a bike with generally high quality components will have expensive wheels. And if you ride a bike to work with a dynohub (and of course you should you know) your wheels could be at the mercy of every potential thief walking past the bike rack outside the building you work in. The Pit! Pitlock is a complete system of skewers and bolts for many of the expensive components of your bicycle. For example, your wheels are generally held onto your bike with quick release skewers. If you leave your bike unattended with just the frame locked, it takes only seconds for a thief to steal your wheels. If your bike has an expensive fork, it can be stolen with a 5mm allen wrench. Just undo the bolts holding the stem on your threadless fork, and the fork drops right out of the frame. Your seat post with saddle attached can also be stolen either by flipping open its QR, or loosening the 5mm allen bolt. Expensive V brakes can also be stripped from a bike with nothing more than a 5mm allen wrench. You can remove your front wheel, place it alongside your rear wheel and then lock your bike to some lamp post with a big heavy "D" lock. But that limits you to only certain locations to lock your bike, locations with a suitable pole and free space surrounding it. And it means having to remove that front wheel, which may have an expensive dynohub with wiring attached, fender with a mudflap attached that can get mangled while resting on the ground, and it means your "D" lock needs to be large and heavy. With Pitlock, you can use a much smaller lock to just lock your frame or a wheel to something immobile, giving you many more options for locking your whole bike. Nut end. The skewer shaft is extra long for thick dropouts. Pitlock skewers make it very difficult for a thief to steal your wheels, seat post, even your threadless fork and brakes. Pitlock replaces your hub's quick release skewers, brake fixing bolts, 1 1/8" threadless headset top bolt and cap, seatpost fixing bolt, and even replaceable rear dropout bolts with special bolts that require a special stainless steel key or "Pit" wrench to open. The locking nuts can't be opened without one of 256 individually shaped "Pits". Ordinary wrenches can't grab onto the specially shaped nuts and bolt heads making up the Pitlock system. Only the included Pits can engage the heads. And there are 256 different shapes to these Pits, nutsand bolt heads. A thief would have to make a huge investment in Pitlock sets in order to have a good chance of having the correct Pit for your Pitlock set. Back end, tapered so no wrench can lock on You can buy a complete set of Pitlock skewers and locking bolts, or you can buy just a single Pitlock item now, and add more later if needed. For some people, the only high value item on their bike might be a Schmidt SON dynamo hub in their front wheel. You can buy just a front Pitlock skewer for it, or you can get a set with a front skewer and a seat post binder bolt, or with a rear hub skewer. Pitlock for a seatpost binder. Set 06 In the image above, notice that the bolt is extra long. Some binders require longer bolts than others. Once you know how long yours needs to be, cut it to the desired length. If you know how long you want it when ordering, tell us and I'll cut it for you. The Pit is hollow so you can tighten it with the bolt at full length. The bolt will simply extend out the end of the Pit. Once you buy a set of skewers, say for your hubs, if you want to add a lock for your threadless stem, you simply provide us with the Pit code which is supplied with your first set and we'll send you a threadless stem lock that works with your original Pits. That way you can have just two Pits for all of your Pitlock products. You get two Pits when you buy any Pitlock set. Keep one with your bike (but not on your bike when you park it) and the other at home. These skewers will replace any standard 5mm (the industry standard) hub quick release skewer, regardless of brand. The Pitlock seat post bolt will replace any external seat post binder bolt and should be compatible with any loose locking collar. Seatpost Binder with Pit inserted. Pitlocks come in a variety of sets. There's a set that includes two Pitlock skewers (and two Pits) for your hubs. That's set #03. I don't know why. I'd have made it Set #01. But Set #01 has a front hub skewer and a seat post skewer (and two Pits). Set #02 has front and rear hub skewers and a seat post skewer along with the two Pits. Set #04 is for just a front hub skewer and #05 is just a rear hub skewer. Locknut on left, Pit on right Most sets include two Pits, the tool you use to tighten or loosen your Pitlock device. You get two so that you have one to keep with the bike, and a second for a spare. The Pit takes the place of an allen wrench or the lever of a hub quick release. The Pit engages the nut or bolt head of the Pitlock device, and no other wrench can engage that nut or bolt; it will just slip off. You can't even get vise grips around the Pitlock nuts since there's a very tough tapered stainless steel cover surrounding the nut that spins freely. Backside of the nut, ridged so it won't back out The special Pit fits in between that tapered cover and the nut or bolt head, and there are 256 different shapes to these Pits. You need either a 14mm box end wrench, or any strong rod 6mm or smaller in diameter to hold and tighten a Pit. A 5mm allen wrench or most screw drivers will fit nicely into the hole in a Pit to use as a wrench to get leverage on it. Use a toothpick to spread a bit of grease onto the threads inside the nut. The stainless nut on the stainless shaft can bind and break the shaft without lubrication! Nut inside the Pit, a lovely tight fit that won't slip. The Pits are all coded with a number which you'll get with your first Pitlock set, regardless of which set you get. Any future Pitlock devices you buy should be bought using that number, so that the Pits you got with your first set will fit the new devices. There's no need to have extra Pits that are incompatible with your other Pitlock devices. Business end of the Pitlock Skewer In the image above, notice that the nut is inside the tapered safety ring. If a thief wants to grab onto the safety ring and turn it, it would do him no good, and in fact it will spin freely. The nut is inside the safety ring. The safety ring prevents anything except the Pit from contacting the nut and turning it loose. If you buy a set of hub skewers, Set #03 and then add a seat post skewer later, you'll pay more than if you buy the Set #02 and get the two hub skewers with the seat post skewer. And you don't want to buy a Set #03 and then later buy a Set #06. A Set #06 is the seat post skewer and two Pits. But the Pits will probably not fit your hub skewers, unless by pure chance they happen to have the same number. When you want to add additional locking skewers for more parts of your bike, remember to order them by the Pit key code of the first set you bought, then your Pits will fit all of your Pitlock devices, and you won't be paying for more Pits. If you're planning on getting set #03, which has two skewers for your wheels, you should give serious consideration to set #02. It's just a little bit more money, and it protects your seatpost, and perhaps your saddle. It takes only a few seconds to loosen a seatpost binder bolt with either a QR lever or a 5mm allen wrench, and the post slides right out. So for very little more than the cost of the Pitlock hub skewers, you can also protect the seatpost as well. I'll be placing orders to Germany about once a month, so if you do need to add a Pitlock device to work with your existing Pits, it won't take very long to get them. Of course if you're just starting out, I have a large inventory so you shouldn't have to wait at all. Since stainless steel can be sticky against other stainless parts, you must grease the threads of the Pitlock skewer shaft when assembling. Make sure that the thread on the shaft as well as inside the nut is greased. Use a toothpick to get grease into the nut's threads. And it's very important, if you have a SON hub, to grease it after putting the skewer through the SON hub. Too much grease inside the SON axle can clog the vent hole in the axle. So, put the skewer through the SON hub, and then put a little spot of grease on the threads. No system is perfect. For most older bikes, Pitlock won't completely prevent front wheel theft. For example, if your fork has a threaded steerer, meaning that your stem inserts into the steerer, your front wheel can still be stolen if the thief can remove the stem from the steerer (usually with a 5mm allen wrench) and if he can take apart the headset. That requires a large wrench, typically one that's 32mm across, to remove the top half of the headset. Certainly it would take a while and the thief couldn't accomplish the task discreetly. Then the thief could remove the fork from the frame with the front wheel attached. He'd then have to do some serious work back in his shop to get the wheel off the fork. So, it's not perfect protection, but it's far better than most alternatives. Not Too Tight! Resist the temptation to make the Pitlock as tight as you can get it. You don't need to lean on your wrench to make the Pitlock hold your wheel securely on your frame, provided you're using vertical dropouts. See the paragraph on horizontal dropouts below. If you clamp the Pitlock too tightly, you can break the skewer shaft. Just put a spot of grease on the thread and tighten the Pit firmly. It's designed not to loosen up while you're riding, so you don't need all of your strength to make a safe connection. Horizontal Dropouts? I don't recommend a Pitlock rear skewer if your frame has horizontal dropouts. Horizontal dropouts require very high clamping force, otherwise the wheel will slip forward in the right dropout. Pitlocks are designed for vertical dropouts, which do not require high clamping force. The Pitlocks can't produce enough clamping force for a horizontal dropout. Think of them as comparable to aluminum QR skewers, which, as most people now know, can't be used with older bikes having horizontal dropouts. But with vertical dropouts, Pitlocks will hold your wheel quite securely in the frame. Don't worry. Set Prices All set prices include one or two Pits and a code. If you already have a Pitlock product and know the Pit code, you can order additional components to match the Pits you already have. To order parts by your existing Pit code, scroll down beyond this section to the Parts Prices section. Set #01: Includes front hub skewer and seatpost binder for external binder bolts and two Pits with serial number. Pitlock for Front QR hub and seatpost, Set #01: $ 76.00 Set #02: Includes everything from Set 01 plus a rear skewer. Pitlock for Front and Rear QR hubs and seatpost, Set #02: $ 88.00 Set #02/GA adds an Aheadset cap and nut to the set #02 Set includes front & rear hub skewers, seat post bolt, and Aheadset top cap and bolt. Pitlock Set #02/GA: $ 126.00 Set #02/BR adds two brake bolts to the Set #02 Set includes front & rear hub skewers, seat post bolt, and two brake bolts. Pitlock Set #02/BR: $ 143.00 Set #02/GA/BR adds two brake bolts to the set #02/GA Set includes front & rear hub skewers, seat post bolt, Aheadset top cap and bolt and two brake bolts. Pitlock Set #02/GA/BR: $ 174.00 Set #03: includes two hubs skewers, front and rear, and two Pits with serial number. Pitlock for Front and Rear QR hubs, Set #03: $ 76.00 Consider the Set #02 above to protect your seatpost for a few dollars more. Set #03/GA adds an Aheadset cap and nut to the set #03 This does not include a seat post bolt. Pitlock Set #03/GA: $ 115.00 Set #03/BR adds two brake bolts to the Set #03 This does not include a seat post bolt or an Aheadset bolt and cap. Pitlock Set #03/BR: $ 125.00 Set #04: Includes one front hub skewer and two Pits with serial number. Pitlock for Front QR hub, Set #04: $ 50.50 Set #05: Includes one rear hub skewer and two Pits with serial number. Pitlock for Rear QR hub, Set #05: $ 50.50 Set #06: Includes one seatpost binder bolt and two Pits with serial number. Pitlock for Seatpost, Set #06: $ 50.50 Set #07: Includes one rear hub skewer, a seatpost binder bolt, and two Pits with serial number. Pitlock for Rear QR Hub and Seatpost, Set #07: $ 76.00 Set #08: Includes one bolt set for dropout and one Pit with serial number. Pitlock for Removeable Dropout, Set #08: $ 52.00 Set #09: Includes Aheadset top cap, special bolt and one Pit with serial number. This is for threadless headsets on 1 1/8" steerer tubes, not for any other size or headset design! Pitlock for Aheadset Top Nut, Set #09: $ 52.00 Set #10: Includes two special bolts for canti brake studs and one Pit with serial number. Pitlock for Cantilever or V Brakes, Set #10: $ 70.00 Parts Prices These parts all need to be ordered by your Pit code. If you don't already have a Pitlock product with a code, you need to scroll up to the section right above this section and order a Set. Additional front or rear hub skewer. $ 27.14 We have these for front and rear hubs. The rear hubs can use any axle length up to 145mm. Please specify your rear axle length so we give you the right skewer. We also have a way to fit these to Santana's 160mm rear hubs, but it costs a bit more. Additional Seat Post binder. Same price as above. Many more items available. Check back! We'll keep a record of the Pit code for your set. It will be included with your invoice, and on our copy of your invoice in our computer database. So even if you lose the code, and your invoice, we'll be able to provide you with additional components which fit your existing Pits. And, should you lose your Pit or Pits, with that code we'll be able to sell you replacement Pits. So you don't need to worry about your investment should you lose your paperwork, or your Pits. Extra components with matching Pit codes can take a month or two to bring in from Germany. I'll be placing orders about once a month for additional coded Pitlock parts. If you purchase your Pitlock set through your local bike shop, we'll have no way of knowing what your Pit code is. But as long as you keep that number you're all set. Dealer Inquiries Invited We are the US representative for Pitlock. We would love to have every bicycle shop in the US and Canada selling Pitlock skewers. If you own a bicycle shop and would like to be a dealer, please give us a call. 603 478 0900 And dealers, please remember to remind your customers to grease the threads! ;-) Back to: Products page Back to: Peter White Cycles home page Mail to: The email link above uses javascript to hide the actual address from spambots. Your browser needs to be set to run javascript in order for you to use any of the email links on my website. If you can't see the links, you can call us or send a fax. You can also type the address into your email software. First, type the alias, "pjw". Then type the "@" sign. It's above the number 2 on your keyboard. Then type the domain, "peterwhitecycles.com". Don't put in the quotes! That should do it. We use the javascript so that the spammers can't see the actual email address. I hope it works. Sometimes the volume of email is so great we can't get to it all. For important communication, please phone, or phax. It's best to call before 4PM Eastern time since after that we're either running around like headless chickens or at home ready to jump into the pot. Under no circumstances should you place an order without first reading this. This page updated: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 Peter White Cycles 24 Hall Rd. Hillsborough, NH 03244 USA 603 478 0900 Phone 603 478 0902 Phax

Pitlock

Set 02 for wheels and seatpost binder.

Some bicycle wheels are pretty expensive. You can easily pay $600 for a set of racing wheels or heavy duty touring wheels. A front wheel for a dynamo lighting system can cost well over $300. A Rohloff 14 speed hub alone will set you back $1,000 or so. While most bicycle thieves don't know the difference between a SON hub and a Wald steel bolt-on hub, they do know that a bike with generally high quality components will have expensive wheels. And if you ride a bike to work with a dynohub (and of course you should you know) your wheels could be at the mercy of every potential thief walking past the bike rack outside the building you work in.

The Pit!

Pitlock is a complete system of skewers and bolts for many of the expensive components of your bicycle. For example, your wheels are generally held onto your bike with quick release skewers. If you leave your bike unattended with just the frame locked, it takes only seconds for a thief to steal your wheels. If your bike has an expensive fork, it can be stolen with a 5mm allen wrench. Just undo the bolts holding the stem on your threadless fork, and the fork drops right out of the frame. Your seat post with saddle attached can also be stolen either by flipping open its QR, or loosening the 5mm allen bolt. Expensive V brakes can also be stripped from a bike with nothing more than a 5mm allen wrench.

You can remove your front wheel, place it alongside your rear wheel and then lock your bike to some lamp post with a big heavy "D" lock. But that limits you to only certain locations to lock your bike, locations with a suitable pole and free space surrounding it. And it means having to remove that front wheel, which may have an expensive dynohub with wiring attached, fender with a mudflap attached that can get mangled while resting on the ground, and it means your "D" lock needs to be large and heavy. With Pitlock, you can use a much smaller lock to just lock your frame or a wheel to something immobile, giving you many more options for locking your whole bike.

Nut end. The skewer shaft is extra long for thick dropouts.

Pitlock skewers make it very difficult for a thief to steal your wheels, seat post, even your threadless fork and brakes. Pitlock replaces your hub's quick release skewers, brake fixing bolts, 1 1/8" threadless headset top bolt and cap, seatpost fixing bolt, and even replaceable rear dropout bolts with special bolts that require a special stainless steel key or "Pit" wrench to open. The locking nuts can't be opened without one of 256 individually shaped "Pits". Ordinary wrenches can't grab onto the specially shaped nuts and bolt heads making up the Pitlock system. Only the included Pits can engage the heads. And there are 256 different shapes to these Pits, nutsand bolt heads. A thief would have to make a huge investment in Pitlock sets in order to have a good chance of having the correct Pit for your Pitlock set.

Back end, tapered so no wrench can lock on

You can buy a complete set of Pitlock skewers and locking bolts, or you can buy just a single Pitlock item now, and add more later if needed. For some people, the only high value item on their bike might be a Schmidt SON dynamo hub in their front wheel. You can buy just a front Pitlock skewer for it, or you can get a set with a front skewer and a seat post binder bolt, or with a rear hub skewer.

Pitlock for a seatpost binder. Set 06

In the image above, notice that the bolt is extra long. Some binders require longer bolts than others. Once you know how long yours needs to be, cut it to the desired length. If you know how long you want it when ordering, tell us and I'll cut it for you. The Pit is hollow so you can tighten it with the bolt at full length. The bolt will simply extend out the end of the Pit.

Once you buy a set of skewers, say for your hubs, if you want to add a lock for your threadless stem, you simply provide us with the Pit code which is supplied with your first set and we'll send you a threadless stem lock that works with your original Pits. That way you can have just two Pits for all of your Pitlock products. You get two Pits when you buy any Pitlock set. Keep one with your bike (but not on your bike when you park it) and the other at home. These skewers will replace any standard 5mm (the industry standard) hub quick release skewer, regardless of brand. The Pitlock seat post bolt will replace any external seat post binder bolt and should be compatible with any loose locking collar.

Seatpost Binder with Pit inserted.

Pitlocks come in a variety of sets. There's a set that includes two Pitlock skewers (and two Pits) for your hubs. That's set #03. I don't know why. I'd have made it Set #01. But Set #01 has a front hub skewer and a seat post skewer (and two Pits). Set #02 has front and rear hub skewers and a seat post skewer along with the two Pits. Set #04 is for just a front hub skewer and #05 is just a rear hub skewer.

Locknut on left, Pit on right

Most sets include two Pits, the tool you use to tighten or loosen your Pitlock device. You get two so that you have one to keep with the bike, and a second for a spare. The Pit takes the place of an allen wrench or the lever of a hub quick release. The Pit engages the nut or bolt head of the Pitlock device, and no other wrench can engage that nut or bolt; it will just slip off. You can't even get vise grips around the Pitlock nuts since there's a very tough tapered stainless steel cover surrounding the nut that spins freely.

Backside of the nut, ridged so it won't back out

The special Pit fits in between that tapered cover and the nut or bolt head, and there are 256 different shapes to these Pits. You need either a 14mm box end wrench, or any strong rod 6mm or smaller in diameter to hold and tighten a Pit. A 5mm allen wrench or most screw drivers will fit nicely into the hole in a Pit to use as a wrench to get leverage on it.

Use a toothpick to spread a bit of grease onto the threads inside the nut. The stainless nut on the stainless shaft can bind and break the shaft without lubrication!

Nut inside the Pit, a lovely tight fit that won't slip.

The Pits are all coded with a number which you'll get with your first Pitlock set, regardless of which set you get. Any future Pitlock devices you buy should be bought using that number, so that the Pits you got with your first set will fit the new devices. There's no need to have extra Pits that are incompatible with your other Pitlock devices.

Business end of the Pitlock Skewer

In the image above, notice that the nut is inside the tapered safety ring. If a thief wants to grab onto the safety ring and turn it, it would do him no good, and in fact it will spin freely. The nut is inside the safety ring. The safety ring prevents anything except the Pit from contacting the nut and turning it loose.

If you buy a set of hub skewers, Set #03 and then add a seat post skewer later, you'll pay more than if you buy the Set #02 and get the two hub skewers with the seat post skewer. And you don't want to buy a Set #03 and then later buy a Set #06. A Set #06 is the seat post skewer and two Pits. But the Pits will probably not fit your hub skewers, unless by pure chance they happen to have the same number. When you want to add additional locking skewers for more parts of your bike, remember to order them by the Pit key code of the first set you bought, then your Pits will fit all of your Pitlock devices, and you won't be paying for more Pits.

If you're planning on getting set #03, which has two skewers for your wheels, you should give serious consideration to set #02. It's just a little bit more money, and it protects your seatpost, and perhaps your saddle. It takes only a few seconds to loosen a seatpost binder bolt with either a QR lever or a 5mm allen wrench, and the post slides right out. So for very little more than the cost of the Pitlock hub skewers, you can also protect the seatpost as well.

I'll be placing orders to Germany about once a month, so if you do need to add a Pitlock device to work with your existing Pits, it won't take very long to get them. Of course if you're just starting out, I have a large inventory so you shouldn't have to wait at all.

Since stainless steel can be sticky against other stainless parts, you must grease the threads of the Pitlock skewer shaft when assembling. Make sure that the thread on the shaft as well as inside the nut is greased. Use a toothpick to get grease into the nut's threads. And it's very important, if you have a SON hub, to grease it after putting the skewer through the SON hub. Too much grease inside the SON axle can clog the vent hole in the axle. So, put the skewer through the SON hub, and then put a little spot of grease on the threads.

No system is perfect. For most older bikes, Pitlock won't completely prevent front wheel theft. For example, if your fork has a threaded steerer, meaning that your stem inserts into the steerer, your front wheel can still be stolen if the thief can remove the stem from the steerer (usually with a 5mm allen wrench) and if he can take apart the headset. That requires a large wrench, typically one that's 32mm across, to remove the top half of the headset. Certainly it would take a while and the thief couldn't accomplish the task discreetly. Then the thief could remove the fork from the frame with the front wheel attached. He'd then have to do some serious work back in his shop to get the wheel off the fork. So, it's not perfect protection, but it's far better than most alternatives.

Not Too Tight!

Resist the temptation to make the Pitlock as tight as you can get it. You don't need to lean on your wrench to make the Pitlock hold your wheel securely on your frame, provided you're using vertical dropouts. See the paragraph on horizontal dropouts below. If you clamp the Pitlock too tightly, you can break the skewer shaft. Just put a spot of grease on the thread and tighten the Pit firmly. It's designed not to loosen up while you're riding, so you don't need all of your strength to make a safe connection.

Horizontal Dropouts?

I don't recommend a Pitlock rear skewer if your frame has horizontal dropouts. Horizontal dropouts require very high clamping force, otherwise the wheel will slip forward in the right dropout. Pitlocks are designed for vertical dropouts, which do not require high clamping force. The Pitlocks can't produce enough clamping force for a horizontal dropout. Think of them as comparable to aluminum QR skewers, which, as most people now know, can't be used with older bikes having horizontal dropouts. But with vertical dropouts, Pitlocks will hold your wheel quite securely in the frame. Don't worry.

Set Prices

All set prices include one or two Pits and a code. If you already have a Pitlock product and know the Pit code, you can order additional components to match the Pits you already have. To order parts by your existing Pit code, scroll down beyond this section to the Parts Prices section.

Set #01: Includes front hub skewer and seatpost binder for external binder bolts and two Pits with serial number.

Pitlock for Front QR hub and seatpost, Set #01: $ 76.00

Set #02: Includes everything from Set 01 plus a rear skewer.

Pitlock for Front and Rear QR hubs and seatpost, Set #02: $ 88.00

Set #02/GA adds an Aheadset cap and nut to the set #02

Set includes front & rear hub skewers, seat post bolt, and Aheadset top cap and bolt.

Pitlock Set #02/GA: $ 126.00

Set #02/BR adds two brake bolts to the Set #02

Set includes front & rear hub skewers, seat post bolt, and two brake bolts.

Pitlock Set #02/BR: $ 143.00

Set #02/GA/BR adds two brake bolts to the set #02/GA

Set includes front & rear hub skewers, seat post bolt, Aheadset top cap and bolt and two brake bolts.

Pitlock Set #02/GA/BR: $ 174.00

Set #03: includes two hubs skewers, front and rear, and two Pits with serial number.

Pitlock for Front and Rear QR hubs, Set #03: $ 76.00

Consider the Set #02 above to protect your seatpost for a few dollars more.

Set #03/GA adds an Aheadset cap and nut to the set #03

This does not include a seat post bolt.

Pitlock Set #03/GA: $ 115.00

Set #03/BR adds two brake bolts to the Set #03

This does not include a seat post bolt or an Aheadset bolt and cap.

Pitlock Set #03/BR: $ 125.00

Set #04: Includes one front hub skewer and two Pits with serial number.

Pitlock for Front QR hub, Set #04: $ 50.50

Set #05: Includes one rear hub skewer and two Pits with serial number.

Pitlock for Rear QR hub, Set #05: $ 50.50

Set #06: Includes one seatpost binder bolt and two Pits with serial number.

Pitlock for Seatpost, Set #06: $ 50.50

Set #07: Includes one rear hub skewer, a seatpost binder bolt, and two Pits with serial number.

Pitlock for Rear QR Hub and Seatpost, Set #07: $ 76.00

Set #08: Includes one bolt set for dropout and one Pit with serial number.

Pitlock for Removeable Dropout, Set #08: $ 52.00

Set #09: Includes Aheadset top cap, special bolt and one Pit with serial number. This is for threadless headsets on 1 1/8" steerer tubes, not for any other size or headset design!

Pitlock for Aheadset Top Nut, Set #09: $ 52.00

Set #10: Includes two special bolts for canti brake studs and one Pit with serial number.

Pitlock for Cantilever or V Brakes, Set #10: $ 70.00

Parts Prices

These parts all need to be ordered by your Pit code. If you don't already have a Pitlock product with a code, you need to scroll up to the section right above this section and order a Set.

Additional front or rear hub skewer. $ 27.14 We have these for front and rear hubs. The rear hubs can use any axle length up to 145mm. Please specify your rear axle length so we give you the right skewer. We also have a way to fit these to Santana's 160mm rear hubs, but it costs a bit more.

Additional Seat Post binder. Same price as above.

Many more items available. Check back!

We'll keep a record of the Pit code for your set. It will be included with your invoice, and on our copy of your invoice in our computer database. So even if you lose the code, and your invoice, we'll be able to provide you with additional components which fit your existing Pits. And, should you lose your Pit or Pits, with that code we'll be able to sell you replacement Pits. So you don't need to worry about your investment should you lose your paperwork, or your Pits. Extra components with matching Pit codes can take a month or two to bring in from Germany. I'll be placing orders about once a month for additional coded Pitlock parts. If you purchase your Pitlock set through your local bike shop, we'll have no way of knowing what your Pit code is. But as long as you keep that number you're all set.

Dealer Inquiries Invited

We are the US representative for Pitlock. We would love to have every bicycle shop in the US and Canada selling Pitlock skewers. If you own a bicycle shop and would like to be a dealer, please give us a call. 603 478 0900

And dealers, please remember to remind your customers to grease the threads! ;-)

Back to: Products page

Back to: Peter White Cycles home page

Mail to:

The email link above uses javascript to hide the actual address from spambots. Your browser needs to be set to run javascript in order for you to use any of the email links on my website. If you can't see the links, you can call us or send a fax. You can also type the address into your email software. First, type the alias, "pjw". Then type the "@" sign. It's above the number 2 on your keyboard. Then type the domain, "peterwhitecycles.com". Don't put in the quotes! That should do it.

We use the javascript so that the spammers can't see the actual email address. I hope it works.

Sometimes the volume of email is so great we can't get to it all. For important communication, please phone, or phax.

It's best to call before 4PM Eastern time since after that we're either running around like headless chickens or at home ready to jump into the pot.

Under no circumstances should you place an order without first reading this.

This page updated: Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Peter White Cycles
24 Hall Rd.
Hillsborough, NH 03244
USA
603 478 0900 Phone
603 478 0902 Phax