SON Lights

• Schmidt E6
• Lumotec Fly
• Lumotec
• Lumotec Oval Plus
• Brake Lights!!
• Lumotec Plus??
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Other Switched
Lights

• Lumotec Oval Plus Senso
• Lumotec N
• Lumotec N Plus

Unswitched Lights

• Lumotec & Lumotec Plus
• Lumotec Oval, Oval Plus
  & Oval Plus 12
• BiSy FL-SR
• Schmidt E6-OS
• Compare them

Bulbs & Spare Parts

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Wiring Instructions

Taillights

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Schmidt Hubs

Shimano DH-3N70 Hubs

The Perfect Headlight

Because drag is so low with the SON dynohub, and because LEDs work for many thousands of hours without failing (unlike the 100 hour run times with halogen bulbs) some riders like to use LED headlights without a switch and just have the light on all the time. But the difference in price between switched vs unswitched LED headlights is small.

Naturally, lights without switches are less expensive than those with switches. The Lumotec is available unswitched or with a plastic slider switch and lighter wiring for just a bit more than the standard unswitched Lumotec. It is also available with coaxial cable and high quality stainless steel switch, as modified by Schmidt. But the best quality switch is in the Schmidt E6 headlight, which has a magnetic reed type switch.

The Schmidt E6 is available switched and unswitched, E6-OS. The E6 bayonets apart for easy bulb replacement. The Lumotecs also bayonet apart, (but be careful of the little tab, it can break) and the Lumotec Ovals have a slider latch to open the light. LED headlights do not require bulb replacement.

All 6 volt dynamo halogen headlights I sell use the same bulbs; either the 2.4 watt or 3 watt bulb. If used with a .6 watt taillight, use the 2.4 watt bulb. If you prefer a battery taillight, use the 3 watt bulb in the headlight. All halogen bulb headlights must draw 3 watts, either with the 3 watt bulb, or a .6 watt taillight and a 2.4 watt halogen headlight bulb. There's no perceptible difference in brightness between the 2.4 watt and 3 watt bulbs when new. All halogen bulbs get dim with use.

About LEDs & Taillights

While Busch & Müller LED headlights can be used with or without a wired taillight attached, in one model, the DLumotec Oval & Topal series, the LED will run hotter without a taillight attached, and when it runs hotter, it will not last as long. It will still last many thousands of hours, but it will run many thousands more if it doesn't get quite so hot. Also, when the LED isn't as hot, it is more efficient, and in some circumstances, perhaps even a bit brighter. (The brightness issue is something I've picked up by reading about these headlights. It's not something I've tested myself, so please don't hit me with questions about how much brighter, etc this or that light will or might be in this or that circumstance. In other words, don't ask me about it, because this is all I know about it.) My advice is simply this, if you wish to use the DLumotec Oval headlight, I recommend that you also use a wired taillight along with it. If you simply can't cope, just couldn't even imagine getting out of bed in the morning if you must have a wire running past your saddle, either get a newer LED headlight like the Lumotec LYT or CYO or get a halogen headlight. The E6 is every bit as wonderful today as it has ever been.

This applies to the DLumotec Topal (four models) and DLumotec Oval series headlights (six models).

Orientation

None of these headlights should be positioned upside down. In the case of the Busch & Müller headlights, that can allow water to collect in the housing, shorting out your lights in the rain when you need them more than ever. But more importantly, by rotating the lens upside down, the brightest part of the beam hits the road closest to you, making for a light that is next to useless for clearly seeing the road ahead for any meaningful distance. While the Schmidt headlights are impervious to water penetration, placing it upside down is particularly silly, since you've spent so much money for a carefully refined beam pattern, and by reversing it, you make the light beam worse than the cheapest Nigerian flashlight.

All headlights (and taillights) are weatherproof, not waterproof. If you place them in a bucket of water, they won't work. But they'll work all day in the rain, unless you have them upside down.

Most dynamo powered headlights mount in the same fashion. At the bottom rear of the light is a horizontal hole, perpendicular to the light beam, and 6mm in diameter. I have various mounts to allow placing the headlight in many locations on your bike. Most lights can be placed directly above the front brake. All except the "Topal" series headlights can be mounted on either fork blade below the brake, or on the handlebar, or an accessory bar attached to the handlebar. The B&M Topal series headlights can only mount directly above the brake at the fork crown, and only on bikes with fenders since the bottom is exposed to spray from below. The Schmidt E6 can mount using any handlebar mount to either a handlebar, or to the side of a fork.

Connections

Metric spade connectors attach the wiring to most of these headlights. These metric connectors are virtually impossible to find in the United States, except by bicycle shops that sell these lights. I stock them by the thousands. So if you have any concerns, buy some extra connectors when you purchase your system. They are very inexpensive. If you're buying these lights from your local bike shop, be sure to ask them to get some extra connectors.

Some headlights are hard wired for attachment to the Schmidt SON dynohub. All have connectors to attach optional taillights. We stock lots of wiring and connectors to allow many configurations for your bike. We don't have a package as such, since everyone's bike is a bit different. We prefer to sell you exactly what you need to give you the best lighting for your needs.

Primary? Secondary? Huh?

Many headlights can act as Primary headlights in a two headlight system powered by the Schmidt SON dynohub or other 6 volt hub dynamo like the Sanyo H27. The Primary and Secondary are wired in series to the dynohub. There are two exceptions. The Lumotec IQ Fly, IQ CYO, LYT and Supernova headlights cannot be used with the E6 Secondary headlight. And the Inolights also cannot be used with a Secondary. However, the Inolights can be used with another Primary E6 headlight, or with another Inolight, if the two are wired in parallel. And of course all headlights, except Secondary headlights, work with a wired taillight.

Only lights specifically wired and switched to work as a Secondary headlight can be used as a Secondary headlight. A regular E6 headlight is a Primary headlight, for example. It can be alone as the sole headlight, with or without a wired taillight. And it can be used along with an E6 Secondary wired in series in a two headlight system. A taillight would be wired in parallel to the Primary headlight, being switched on and off by the headlight's switch.

But the Primary E6, or any other primary headlight cannot become a Secondary headlight. We have a special version of the E6, the E6 Secondary or E6-Z, that works as a Secondary headlight along with a Primary headlight, like an E6, a Lumotec, or a DLumotec Oval N Plus. There are many others. But there is only one Secondary, the E6-Z Secondary. It cannot be converted into a Primary, and a Primary cannot be converted to a Secondary.

There is now only one headlight designated as a Secondary headlight, the Schmidt E6 Secondary aka E6-Z. The Lumotec Secondary is no longer made. The E6 Secondary looks the same as a Primary E6 headlight, the difference is in the internal wiring of the switch, the connectors at the end of the 80cm wire, and the absence of a taillight connector on the E6-Z. The E6 Secondary headlight will work with any Primary halogen headlight when attached to a Son dynohub, and a few LED headlights. The newest LED headlights (Supernova, Schmidt Edelux, B&M Lumotec IQ Fly, CYO and LYT) have wider beams and are quite bright, eliminating the need for a Secondary headlight.

All Primary headlights can have a taillight attached. The taillights come in a variety of styles, to fit either a rear rack, or a rear fender, and can be adapted to attach to a rear cantilever stud or even some seat post binder bolts. But all of the taillights are .6 watt. If you use them with a primary headlight using a halogen bulb, the bulb must be a 2.4 watt bulb. If you don't use a taillight, the bulb must be a 3 watt bulb. If your headlight is an LED, then there is nothing to change in the headlight, but of course the LED will last longer if you keep a taillight connected.

Which Headlight Is Best?

I was afraid you'd ask that. "It all depends," is the short answer. But perhaps there's a better answer. I'll try.

Let's say you ride in Los Angeles, CA. It hardly ever rains there. And from the photos I've seen, it's pretty flat right in the city. And being a city there are street lights everywhere. If you lived where it rained a lot, you'd need a fairly bright light so as to compete with the glare from all the automobile headlights in the rain. But it rarely rains in LA so you shouldn't need a very bright light. The Spanninga Luceo, and all of the Busch & Müller halogen headlights as well as the Busch & Müller DLumotec (LED) headlights have enough output for riding on flat roads (no screaming fast descents) in dry conditions. The DLumotecs have the largest beams in this category.

Now, let's say you ride in my old home town, Boston, MA. It rains a lot in Boston. So if you're commuting there, the brighter your headlight, the better, at least when it's raining. So you should consider the brighter headlights such as (in increasing order of price) Busch & Müller Lumotec IQ Fly and IQ Cyo, Schmidt E6, Inoled Extreme, Schmidt Edelux and Supernova E3.

Boston itself has only a few hills but the surrounding towns can be quite hilly. The faster you ride, the less time you have to react to whatever you're approaching. So you need a brighter light to see things clearly at a greater distance, and have more time to react. At 12 mph you don't need to be so concerned about what's 100 feet up the road as you do at 30 mph. However, it's not simply a matter of total light output. It matters how the light is focused. If the beam projects very bright light onto the ground twenty feet ahead of you, the road fifty to seventy-five feet ahead may not be as easy for you to see as it would be if the road twenty feet ahead weren't lit up so much. For fast descents, it's hard to beat the Schmidt E6 headlight since most of its light is concentrated right at the horizon, with very little above that to blind oncoming drivers, and progressively less light below as the beam is projected closer to you.

You may want to be able to easily read street signs which are typically about ten feet above the road surface. Some of the newest headlights have very precisely focused beams which direct virtually all of their light onto the road surface, often making street signs difficult to read. So you might want to avoid those. Headlights that do shine a reasonable amount of light above the road surface are the Spanninga Luceo, all of the halogen bulb headlights except for the Schmidt E6, the Busch & Müller DLumotec series headlights (best value in this category) and the Supernova E3. Headlights with little or no output above the road surface are the Busch & Müller Lumotec IQ Fly, IQ Cyo, Inoled Extreme, Schmidt Edelux and E6. With any of the latter, if reading street signs is important, you may also want to ride with a helmet mounted light.

Miscellaneous

Busch & Müller headlights with the designation "Plus", have a standlight. The standlight is either a very small low powered LED that lights up when you stop and remains lit for up to seven minutes, depending on how long you have been riding before you stopped, or the main LED receives less power and dims for the standlight. These tiny standlight LEDs should not be confused with an LED headlight, which uses an LED as the source of light when you are moving. For example, a Lumotec Oval Plus has both a halogen bulb for when you're moving, and a tiny LED for the standlight when you're stopped.

Some LED headlights use a separate LED as their standlight, (the DLumotec Topal, for example) and others just power the single large LED at a lower level when stopped to act as the standlight (the DLumotec Oval, Lumotec IQ Fly, Schmidt Edelux and Inolight do this).

Don't these dynamo lights Blow Up?

If you do a search on the internet for bicycle dynamo lighting systems, you will undoubtedly come across dire warnings about lights blowing out if you ride your bike too fast. This is true of systems designed back in the 1920s, and used on bikes such as Raleigh three speeds up through the early 1980s. These were very crude systems by today's standards. While you can still buy cheaply made dynamo lights that will blow bulbs on a downhill run, none of the systems I sell are so poorly made that you have to concern yourself with this. Without exception, every headlight I sell for use with either a hub dynamo or sidewall dynamo incorporates circuitry to prevent the overvoltage of the bulb. You have absolutely nothing to worry about, so long as you install the system properly. That means using a 3 watt bulb in halogen headlights when used without a wired taillight.

LED Headlights and Wireless Computers

Some wireless computers don't work with some dynamo powered LED headlights, and even with some battery powered LED headlights. For example, the DLumotec series lights from Busch & Müller seem to cause some wireless computers to stop working. If you find your computer doesn't work when you turn on your lights, my advice is to get a less expensive wired computer. We've never had a problem with any wired computer that uses a magnet attached to the spokes. And remember, wireless computers consume more batteries. So if you don't want to contribute to the local landfill quite so much, either get a wired computer, or just ride without one. I'd rather look at the scenery, frankly, than a computer screen while I'm riding.

Headlights for Schmidt Nabendynamo (SON)
(with high quality switches)

Schmidt E6

The Schmidt E6 headlight uses the optics of the BiSy FL headlight but adds an extremely reliable magnetic reed switch and wiring for easy connection to the SON hub. The E6 is also designed to make it much easier to replace a burned out bulb in the dark.

The E6 beam is dim at the bottom, where it hits the road close to you, and gets progressively brighter towards the top. At the top of the beam, it's extremely bright, to light up the road over 100 feet in front of you. This makes a fast downhill much safer than with other lights. Even battery lights with 20 or more watts can't put as much light at a distance as the E6 can since the optics don't concentrate the light so effectively at the top of the beam. Above the top of the beam is a sharp horizontal cut-off, keeping focused light out of the eyes of oncoming drivers, exactly like a high quality automotive low beam. With this beam pattern, your light is focused on the road ahead of you, not into oncoming drivers eyes or up in the trees where it does you no good. Oncoming drivers still see you very well since the bulb is so bright. For more on beam patterns, click here. $ 103.00 for the Primary version with the standard 2.4 watt bulb. See the Schmidt Ordering page for all of the E6 headlight options and prices.

Choose a 50cm wire with connectors fitted if you'll be mounting the light on the right fork blade. Also available is a 120cm wire with loose ends for other mounting positions. I also have a version of the E6 wired as a secondary headlight. So if you choose the E6 as your primary and want the best Secondary, you can have the E6 for both. The current E6 looks a bit different. New pictures soon.

In this photo you can see the reed switch at the top, the wire to connect to the SON hub, and the additional small connector for an optional taillight. Current production E6 lenses no longer have the clear ring around the perimeter.

If you want to wire the E6 headlight yourself and make your own switch, the E6 is now available without switch and hard wiring for a lower price. But I can't help you with designing a switch box. You'll have to do that yourself. Most people will want the pre-wired versions.

The Schmidt E6 headlight does not have a built-in reflector nor is there a standlight option with the E6. The E6 exists to put the maximum amount of light on the road just where you need it most.

Schmidt Edelux

We now have plenty of Edelux headlights available. We have polished, black and red anodized to match the red Rohloff hub and red SONdelux hub.

The Edelux is Wilfried Schmidt's new LED headlight. It's compatible with all modern 6 volt hub dynamos. This headlight is almost entirely hand made by Schmidt, with the exception of the wonderful IQ-TEC mirror, which is made by Busch & Müller, and of course the LED itself. Since heat is the big enemy of LED headlights, the LED in the Edelux is mounted on a large and heavy copper heat sink. This keeps the LED cool, and results in a very low operating temperature, and a very bright headlight. Like the E6, it uses a magnetic reed switch for high reliability. The switch has On, Off and Senso positions. On Senso, the light switches itself on or off as conditions require. The standlight remains on for up to four minutes after you stop, depending on how long you've been riding. The Edelux does not have a built in reflector. A few people have been surprisd by the fact that the standlight stays lit for a few minutes even if the light is switched off. This is normal for the Edelux.

You may use a taillight with the Edelux, and it will be switched on or off by the headlight. The headlight is unaffected by the presence of the taillight; it's performance is the same in every respect with or without a taillight attached. For safety's sake however, I strongly recommend the use of a reliable wired taillight with the Edelux.

For the Edelux PDF brochure, with all the specifications and a beam comparison with the E6, click here. The graph in the PDF, showing the relative brightness of the Edelux vs other headlights, was made before Inoled introduced the latest version of the Inolight Extreme, and before the new Supernova was introduced.

Two Edelux headlights can be used together, powered by the SON dynohub. However, the cyclist should think long and hard before ordering a second Edelux. One of these headlights is already extremely bright, making it difficult for me to see a significant advantage to having a second. And the wiring for a second Edelux gets a bit complicated. Below 25kph two wired in parallel will be brighter than a single Edelux. But at speeds over 25kph, series wiring will produce the most light. Wiring in parallel is easy; just run both lights to the hub directly and you're done. Each light can be switched on or off independently. But to wire them in series requires a "Secondary" version, with a switch that shorts the Secondary to switch it off. That's something the user will have to rig for himself, at least for the time being. While I can't say it will never happen, there are no plans to make a Secondary Edelux at this time. And the reason for that is that since the Edelux is so bright, it hardly seems like running two makes much sense. The best argument I can see for a second Edelux is to make the beam even wider than it is, and it's now twice as wide as the E6 halogen headlight.

The light is available in polished aluminum finish, as shown, and in black anodized. And both versions are available with either a 60cm wire with attached connectors, or a 140cm wire with the connectors loose. We are happy to install the connectors to the long wire version using my special crimping tool, which does a better job than you can do using regular pliers. You'll just need to loop up the excess wire, or tell me exactly how long you want it.

Polished or black anodized: $ 190.00 Specify 60cm wire or 140cm wire when ordering.

Red Anodized to match Red anodized SONdelux and Red anodized Rohloff 14 speed hub: $ 207.00

Supernova E3 Pro

The new Supernova E3 Pro headlight is very bright and has a big round beam, like a automotive high beam. The manufacturing quality is unsurpassed. These are available with three different mounts. The mount pictured here is for the fork crown and works with cantilever brakes and disc brakes. It may work with some V brakes, depending on the height of the fork crown relative to the brake mounts. It's also available with a handlebar mount or with a mount to work with various Busch & Müller 10mm mounts to work with a 6mm bolt, just like all of the other lights on this page.

You can run a single E3 or two. And in September we'll also have a shaped beam, like an automotive low beam version of the E3. With both beams available, you can switch between a "high beam" or a "low beam" or both at the same time.

Go to my new Supernova page for all the details. As I add more Supernova products, they'll be shown there, not here.

E3 with crown mount, as shown above, E161-L: $ 210.00 Supernova calls this their "Lefty" mount.

E3 with handlebar mount, E161-B: $ 213.00

E3 with 10mm mount, E161-S: $ 205.00

Supernova also makes a very small but extremely bright taillight that works with the E3. Supernova taillights should only be used with Supernova headlights.

The taillight mounts to our Tubus racks and to many other racks using various adapters we stock. The mount holes are 50mm apart. When used with the E3 headlight, the taillight has a standlight function for up to 2 minutes.

E161-T taillight: $ 61.00

About B&M headlights:

Busch & Müller headlights are sold in many versions. They are made for sidewall dynamos or hub dynamos. In a system with a sidewall dynamo, the dynamo acts as the "On" "Off" switch. Many models that have switches for use with a hub dynamo are available with a choice of a two position switch or a three position switch. The third position is for the "Senso" function, in which the light will switch on automatically when it gets dark, provided the bike is moving.

The headlight housing is the same, whether the light has a switch at all, or if it's the two position or three position switch. So if you get the two position version, you'll see a place where the slider switch could perhaps go, but in fact doesn't go. If your light has a two position switch, the two positions will be labeled with a "0" and a "1" for "Off" and "On". If it's a Senso version, you'll see "0" "1" and "S", the "S" is for "Senso". If it's the two position light, with just "0" and "1", and you attempt to push the slider switch into the vacant spot, it won't go. If you get your next door neighbor to help, you know, the guy with the arms the size of most people's waists, he can easily break the switch in a vain attempt to turn a two position switch into a three position switch, but you will not gain a "Senso" function, you will only destroy the switch.

Headlights with the two position switch have the letter "N" in the name. Headlights with the "Senso" function have the word "Senso" in the name.

Busch & Müller Lumotec Fly (Halogen)

Shown here with a mount for a suspension fork, the Lumotec Fly is Busch & Müller's best halogen headlight. The body is more robust than the Lumotec or Oval Plus, and the vertical beam adjustment is easily done without tools. The optics are improved, providing a wider beam with a sharper top edge, allowing the rider to aim the beam a bit further up the road without focusing light into the eyes of oncoming drivers. The lens spreads the light wider on the road surface, opening up the path ahead. But the high concentration of the beam at its top edge still helps you see further down the road. The more robust body resists damage when mounted at the fork crown and the fork is turned too far, pushing the light against the frame. While the Lumotec Fly can still be damaged if you push it against the frame too hard, it will take more abuse than any other B&M headlight.

The Fly is compatible with the Lumotec Secondary and Schmidt E6-Z Secondary, and works with any six volt hub dynamo. Four versions are available for hub dynamos. The "N" version has a two position "On - Off" switch. The "Senso" version has a three position "On - Off - Auto" switch. Auto uses a light sensor to detect when it's dark and switches the light on and off automatically. Both the N and Senso versions are available with or without a standlight, designated with the name "Plus". The standlight is a tiny LED powered by a capacitor. The capacitor is charged while you are riding, and powers the LED for six or seven minutes after you stop, providing a small light to help others see that you're there. The Fly is also available without any switch for use with sidewall dynamos.

Many mounts are available for the Lumotec Fly, enabling secure mounting at the fork crown, on either side of the fork, or on the handlebar. See the light mounts page. The Fly uses the same bulbs as the other Lumotecs and Schmidt E6. If used with a wired taillight, it takes a 2.4 watt bulb. If used with a taillight, it uses a 3 watt bulb and there is a $2 upcharge to change to the 3 watt bulb. And as with all other B&M headlights, the bulb it uses is unaffected by whether or not you have a Secondary headlight attached, and you can use a Secondary whether or not you have a taillight attached to the Fly.

Lumotec-N Fly, part # B&M174N-04 (On-Off switch, no standlight): $ 22.00

Lumotec-N Fly Plus, part # B&M174NDi-04 (On-Off switch, with standlight): $ 26.00

Lumotec Fly Senso, part # B&M174SN-04 (On-Off-Auto switch, no standlight): $ 20.00

Lumotec Fly Senso Plus, part # B&M174SNDi-04 (On-Off-Auto switch, with standlight): $ 30.00

Busch&Müller Lumotec
(with Schmidt Switch)

This is the Busch&Müller (B&M) Lumotec, modified by Schmidt. Wilfried Schmidt has taken the Busch&Müller Lumotec and added a high quality on/off stainless steel toggle switch and coaxial wiring to make a highly reliable headlight for hub dynamos. These cost a bit more than the switched headlights from Busch&Müller, but I think they're worth the difference, primarily due to the high quality toggle switch. The Lumotec's 2.4 watt bulb and reflector create a very bright but narrow beam, though not as narrow as the Schmidt E6, above. Many lighting systems have much higher wattage ratings than the Lumotec and Schmidt. Those systems typically give a bright beam of light that covers a very wide angle. The Lumotec beam is tightly focused to give you light only where you need it most. This allows the hub to run with extremely low mechanical resistance. Because of this the Lumotec is not suitable for single track off road riding. $ 44.00

See the table below for all the Lumotec options (wiring and bulbs).

Schmidt Lumotec Oval Plus

The Schmidt Lumotec Oval Plus has the same halogen bulb and lens as the standard Lumotec. But it also has a blue LED which lights up when you stop. When you stop, the halogen bulb goes out, just as it does with the standard Lumotec. Then the LED lights up for about 6 or 7 minutes, depending on how long you've been riding. The LED provides enough light for others to see you, and for you to read a map or your watch. It's not enough to see the road by, but of course when you're stopped, well...

Wilfried Schmidt has taken the Busch&Müller Lumotec Oval Plus and added a high quality on/off stainless steel toggle switch and coaxial wiring to make a highly reliable headlight for hub dynamos. These cost a bit more than the switched headlights from Busch&Müller, but I think they're worth the difference, primarily due to the high quality toggle switch. Due to the internal wiring, this version of the Oval Plus is only compatible with the Schmidt SON dynohub. It cannot be used with any of the Shimano dynohubs I sell! But the Oval Plus Senso (see below) is compatible with the Shimano hubs. If you want an Oval halogen headlight with a standlight for use with a Shimano dynohub, you must only use the Senso version below. And, please do not read anything more into this than what it says. For example, just because this headlight is not compatible with a Shimano dynohub, that doesn't mean that the sun won't set tomorrow afternoon. ;-) This is the only dynohub headlight I sell that won't work with a Shimano dynohub. It is specifically made for the SON. The difference is that the SON does not ground electrically to the dropouts, and the Shimano dynohubs do ground to the dropouts via the axle.

The Oval Plus comes complete with two brackets; one for mounting to the fork crown with cantilever brakes, (as shown above) and one for mounting at the fork crown with caliper brakes. $ 64.00

See the table below for all of the Oval Plus options, (wiring and bulbs).

People often ask me which is better, the Schmidt E6 beam, or the Lumotec beam. It depends mostly on the speed of the rider. At higher speeds, the E6 is better, because the top edge of the beam is brighter, and it can be aimed a bit higher (further away) than the Lumotec/Lumotec Oval Plus headlights. So at high speeds you'll have more time to react to whatever it is you're approaching. But at slower speeds, the wider and more diffused beam of the Lumotec or Oval Plus might be preferred, since it will show you a larger patch of the road close to you. The LED lights you'll read about below have even more diffused, wider beams than the Lumotec, making them even better still for slower speeds.

This doesn't mean that a Lumotec is dangerous at high speed or that an E6 is no good at lower speeds. Not at all. It just means (I'm stating the obvious here) that there is no single ideal headlight for all riders in all conditions. Often, people will choose a dual headlight system so that they can have both a wide beam Lumotec, and the E6 for those fast descents. Spend a few minutes thinking about the type of riding you do, ask on internet forums for the opinions of others who have used these systems, and feel free to call me for advice.

Caution!

One caution about using the Oval Plus headlight. In daylight, you can't tell if the light is on or off, since drag is so low, just a small pulsing at very low speeds is all you feel. The electronics in the Oval Plus can be damaged if you ride for a mile or so with the light switched on with a burned out bulb. At night you know the bulb is burned out and you'll stop and replace the bulb. But in daylight you won't know and you can damage the headlight. So always be sure to turn off the headlight in the daytime. This is only a concern with the Oval Plus headlight. The standard Lumotec and Schmidt E6 are not affected by this. But you will shorten the useful life of the bulb if you don't turn it off. For daytime running lights, an LED headlight is better.

Busch&Müller DIWA Plus system