Pitlock Closeout Sale!

We are closing out Pitlock products. Once a Pitlock item is out of stock we won't be ordering more.

Note!

In 2013, Pitlock changed their standard packaging on most sets to include only one Pit. Until 2013 they included two pits, so you could keep a spare at home in case one was lost. Selling the sets with one Pit saves money. And since due to rising materials cost they would have to raise their prices, they decided to eliminate one Pit from the sets. However, I think this is not a good way to economize, and so we ordered most of our sets with two Pits. This means we've had to raise prices. But I think it makes sense to have a spare Pit.

We are stocking a few sets with just a single Pit.

When you buy a Pitlock set, you must be sure to save the little card that has the Pit code on it. Without that code you cannot buy replacement parts from Pitlock with the same shape Pit. It's your responsibility to record the Pit code so that if you ever want to add other coded parts to your set or replace lost coded parts you can do so.

Pitlock makes locking skewers for bicycle hubs with hollow axles using 5mm diameter skewers. This is the most common type of axle on bicycles not sold at department stores such as Walmart, Kmart or Sears. If you bought your bike at a department store, it's not worth protecting with Pitlock, and Pitlocks probably won't work on your bike.

Set 02 for wheels and seatpost binder.

Some bicycle wheels are pretty expensive. You can easily pay $700 for a set of racing wheels or heavy duty touring wheels. A front wheel for a dynamo lighting system can cost well over $400. A Rohloff 14 speed hub alone will set you back $1,700 or so. While most bicycle thieves don't know the difference between a SON hub and a Wald steel bolt-on hub, they do know that a bike with generally high quality components will have expensive wheels. And if you ride a bike to work with a dynohub (and of course you should you know) your wheels could be at the mercy of every potential thief walking past the bike rack outside the building where you work.

The Pit!

Pitlock is a complete system of skewers and bolts for many of the expensive components of your bicycle. For example, your wheels are generally held onto your bike with quick release skewers. If you leave your bike unattended with just the frame locked, it takes only seconds for a thief to steal your wheels. If your bike has an expensive fork, it can be stolen with a 5mm allen wrench. Just undo the bolts holding the stem on your threadless fork, and the fork drops right out of the frame. Your seat post with saddle attached can also be stolen either by flipping open its QR, or loosening the 5mm allen bolt. Expensive brakes can also be stripped from a bike with nothing more than a 5mm allen wrench.

You can remove your front wheel, place it alongside your rear wheel and then lock your bike to some lamp post with a big heavy "D" lock. But that limits you to only certain locations to lock your bike, locations with a suitable pole and free space surrounding it. And it means having to remove that front wheel, which may have an expensive dynohub with wiring attached, fender with a mudflap attached that can get mangled while resting on the ground, and it means your "D" lock needs to be large and heavy. With Pitlock, you can use a much smaller lock to just lock your frame or a wheel to something immobile, giving you many more options for locking your whole bike.

Nut end. The skewer shaft is extra long for thick dropouts.

Pitlock skewers make it very difficult for a thief to steal your wheels, seat post, even your threadless fork and brakes. Pitlock replaces your hub's quick release skewers, brake fixing bolts, 1 1/8" threadless headset top bolt and cap, seatpost fixing bolt, and even replaceable rear dropout bolts with special bolts that require a special stainless steel key or "Pit" wrench to open. The locking nuts can't be opened without one of over 1,000 individually shaped "Pits". Ordinary wrenches can't grab onto the specially shaped nuts and bolt heads making up the Pitlock system. Only the included Pits can engage the heads. And there are over 1,000 different shapes to these Pits, nuts and bolt heads. A thief would have to make a huge investment in Pitlock sets in order to have a good chance of having the correct Pit for your Pitlock set.

Back end, tapered so no wrench can lock on

Pitlock for a seatpost binder. Set 06

In the image above, notice that the bolt is extra long. Some binders require longer bolts than others. Once you know how long yours needs to be, cut it to the desired length. If you know how long you want it when ordering, tell us and I'll cut it for you. The Pit is hollow so you can tighten it with the bolt at full length. The bolt will simply extend out the end of the Pit.

If your frame has a seat post collar that isn't an integral part of the frame, in other words, if it's a separate clamp that wraps around the top of the seat tube and clamps the tube tight to the seat post, you should check it to see if it has flat surfaces for the clamping bolt. If it does, the Pitlock seat post binder will work. If it doesn't, Pitlock makes clamps that are suitable for the Pitlock binder bolt. Measure the outside diameter of the seat tube, not the seat post, and we can sell you the correct size clamp. We stock these in silver and black.

Seatpost Binder with Pit inserted.

Pitlocks come in a variety of sets. There's a set that includes two Pitlock skewers (and two Pits) for your hubs. That's set #03. I don't know why. I'd have made it Set #01. But Set #01 has a front hub skewer and a seat post skewer (and two Pits). Set #02 has front and rear hub skewers and a seat post skewer along with the two Pits. Set #04 is for just a front hub skewer and #05 is just a rear hub skewer.

Locknut on left, Pit on right

Most sets include two Pits, the tool you use to tighten or loosen your Pitlock device. Unless the description states otherwise, you get two so that you have one to keep with the bike, and a second for a spare. The Pit takes the place of an allen wrench or the lever of a hub quick release. The Pit engages the nut or bolt head of the Pitlock device, and no other wrench can engage that nut or bolt; it will just slip off. You can't even get vise grips around the Pitlock nuts since there's a very tough, free spinning and tapered stainless steel cover surrounding the nut.

Backside of the nut, ridged so it won't back out

The special Pit fits in between that tapered cover and the nut or bolt head, and there are over 1,000 different shapes to these Pits. You need either a 14mm box end wrench, or any strong rod 5mm or smaller in diameter to hold and tighten a Pit. A 5mm allen wrench or most screw drivers will fit nicely into the hole in a Pit to use as a wrench to get leverage on it.

Use a toothpick to spread a bit of grease onto the threads inside the nut. The stainless nut on the stainless shaft can bind and break the shaft without lubrication!

Nut inside the Pit, a lovely tight fit that won't slip.

Business end of the Pitlock Skewer

In the image above, notice that the nut is inside the tapered safety ring. If a thief wants to grab onto the safety ring and turn it, it would do him no good, and in fact it will spin freely. The nut is inside the safety ring. The safety ring prevents anything except the Pit from contacting the nut and turning it loose.

If you're planning on getting set #03, which has two skewers for your wheels, you should give serious consideration to set #02. It's just a little bit more money, and it protects your seatpost, and perhaps your saddle. It takes only a few seconds to loosen a seatpost binder bolt with either a QR lever or a 5mm allen wrench, and the post slides right out. So for not much more than the cost of the Pitlock hub skewers, you can also protect the seatpost as well. But only if your frame is compatible.

Will the Seatpost binder fit?

In order to work properly, the Pitlock seatpost binder needs two flat surfaces. Your existing seatpost binder bolt can't be recessed into the frame. Some frames use a separate seatpost collar. Some frames have the hole for a seatpost binder incorporated in the frame itself. Take out the bolt, and look at the hole that the bolt goes through. If at each end of the hole there's a flat surface for the Pitlock binder to press against, you're all set. If not, and the frame has the hole as a structural part, you shouldn't use the Pitlock. If you have a separate collar, Pitlock makes collars that have flats on each end and are fully compatible with the Pitlock seatpost binder. We have them for various diameter seat tubes and in silver and black finish. Just measure the outside diameter of the seat tube of the frame, not the seat post.

Since stainless steel can be sticky against other stainless parts, you must grease the threads of the Pitlock skewer shaft when assembling. Make sure that the thread on the shaft as well as inside the nut is greased. Use a toothpick to get grease into the nut's threads. And it's very important, if you have a SON hub, to grease it after putting the skewer through the SON hub. Too much grease inside the SON axle can clog the vent hole in the axle. So, put the skewer through the SON hub, and then put a little spot of grease on the threads.

Not Too Tight!

Resist the temptation to make the Pitlock as tight as you can get it. You don't need to lean on your wrench to make the Pitlock hold your wheel securely on your frame, provided you're using vertical dropouts. See the paragraph on horizontal dropouts below. If you clamp the Pitlock too tightly, you can break the skewer shaft. Just put a spot of grease on the thread and tighten the Pit firmly. It's designed not to loosen up while you're riding, so you don't need all of your strength to make a safe connection.

Horizontal Dropouts?

I don't recommend a Pitlock rear skewer if your frame has horizontal rear dropouts. Horizontal dropouts require very high clamping force, otherwise the wheel will slip forward in the right dropout. Pitlocks are designed for vertical dropouts, which do not require high clamping force. The Pitlocks can't produce enough clamping force for a horizontal dropout. Think of them as comparable to aluminum QR skewers, which, as most people now know, can't be used with older bikes having horizontal dropouts. But with vertical dropouts, Pitlocks will hold your wheel quite securely in the frame. Don't worry.

Set Prices
for Hollow Axle Hubs

All set prices include one or two Pits and a code.

Unless otherwise noted, all skewers are in normal stainless steel finish.

Set #01 (Two Pits!)

Set #01: Includes front hub skewer and seatpost binder for external binder bolts and two Pits with serial number.

Pitlock for Front QR hub and seatpost, Set #01, Part # PIT01: $ 25.00

Set #01 Black (Two Pits!)

Set #01 Black: Same as above but with black finish.

Pitlock for Front QR hub and seatpost, Set #01 Black, Part # PIT01BLK: $ 40.00

Set #01 (One Pit Only!)

Pitlock for Front QR hub and seatpost, Set #01 One Pit Only, Part # PIT01-1: $ 15.00

Set # 01GA Silver, with Black Cap (Two Pits!)

Pitlock for Front QR hub, seatpost and aheadset, all silver with Black Aheadset Top Cap, Set #01GA Silver (Two Pits!), Part # PIT01GAB: $ 35.00

Set # 01GA Black (Two Pits!)

Pitlock for Front QR hub, seatpost and aheadset, 2 pits, all black, Set #01GA Black, Part # PIT01GABBLK: $ 50.00

Set # 01GA (One Pit Only)

Pitlock for Front QR hub, seatpost and aheadset with black top cap, Set #01GA, Part # PIT01GAB-1: $ 25.00

Set #02 (Two Pits!)

Set #02: Includes everything from Set 01 plus a rear skewer. (2 Pits)

Pitlock for Front and Rear QR hubs and seatpost, Set #02, Part # PIT02: $ 30.00

Set #02/GA (Two Pits!)

Set #02/GA adds an Aheadset cap and nut to the set #02 (2 Pits)

Set includes silver front & rear hub skewers, seat post bolt, 2 pits, and Aheadset top cap and bolt. If your bike has a threadless steerer, as most modern bikes do, you need the Aheadset cap (available in silver or black) and bolt. That's the "GA" part. Otherwise your front wheel can be stolen by removing the fork, which takes only a few seconds. Set #02/GAB Black has black skewers and a black top cap.

Pitlock Set #02/GAB, black top cap, Part # PIT02GAB: $ 35.00

Set #02/GA (One Pit)

Same as above but with only one Pit.

Pitlock Set #02/GAS-1, silver top cap, Part # PIT02GAS-1: $ 40.00

Pitlock Set #02/GAB-1, black top cap, Part # PIT02GAB-1: $ 40.00

Set #02/GA/Bionx (One Pit)

Same as above but with bolt for Bionx hub.

Pitlock Set #02/GA/Bionx, black top cap, Part # PIT02/GA/Bionx: $ 35.00

Set #02/GA/Disc2 (Two Pits)

Same as #02/GA but with 2 bolts for IS disc mounts.

Pitlock Set #02/GA/Disc2 (Two Pits), black top cap, Part # PIT02GADISC8D: $ 50.00

Set #02/GA/LH33, and 45

Includes hub skewers, seatpost binder bolt, Aheadset cap and bolt, and headlight mount bolts for Busch & Müller or Schmidt headlight and mount. Measure the total thickness of your fork crown and any hardware you're attaching, like the headlight mount. The last 2 digits (33) is the length in millimeters that the bolt will accommodate, not the length of the bolt itself. (2 Pits)

Unless you specify otherwise, the Aheadset cap will be for a 1-1/8 steerer. We have both 1" and 1-1/4" available. Just let us know.

Set #02/GA/LH33, Part # PIT02GALH33: $ 50.00

Set #02/GA/LH45, Part # PIT02GALH45: $ 50.00

Set #02/AUS

Set #02/AUS includes front & rear hub skewers, seat post binder and dropout.

Set #02/AUS, Part # PIT02AUS, Price: $ 55.00

Set #03/GA

Set #03/GA adds a silver Aheadset cap and bolt to the set #03.

This does not include a seat post bolt. Does include 2 pits.

Pitlock Set #03/GA, (for 1 1/8" steerer, most common) Part # PIT03GA: $

Set #05

Set #05: Includes one rear hub skewer and two Pits.

Pitlock for Rear QR hub, Set #05: $ 20.00

Set #06

Set #06: Includes one seatpost binder bolt and one Pit.

Pitlock for Seatpost, Set #06: $ 15.00

Set #07

Set #07: Includes one rear hub skewer, a seatpost binder bolt, and two Pits.

Pitlock for Rear QR Hub and Seatpost, Set #07: $ 25.00

Set #08

Set #08: Includes one bolt set for dropout and one Pit.

Pitlock for Removeable Dropout, Set #08: $ 15.00

Set #10

Set #10: Includes two special bolts for canti brake studs and one Pit with serial number.

Pitlock for Cantilever or V Brakes, Set #10: $ 15.00

Set #14

Set # 14, "Saddle Direct" blocks access to the saddle clamp bolt on many seat posts. It's a seat collar, Pitlock closure and rubber shim. Once tightened to the seat post, you can't access the bolt holding the saddle to the post. Three sizes for various seat post diameters.

Set #14 28.6mm Silver, Part # PIT14286S, Price: $ 15.00

Set #14 31.8mm Silver, Part # PIT14318S, Price: $ 15.00

Seat Post Clamp, aka Seat Collar

Pitlock makes several sizes of seat post clamps; 28.6mm, 31.8mm and 34.9mm. And for Surly frames, they make a 30.0mm version which consists of the 34.9mm clamp and a shim to fit the 30.0mm outside diameter of Surly frames. It's important to understand something here. The seat post clamp size has nothing to do with the seat post diameter. The seat post is inserted into the seat tube of the frame. The seat tube has some thickness, which varies from frame model to frame model, depending mostly on the frame tubing material. An aluminum seat tube with have thicker tubing than steel, for example. So, when deciding which Pitlock seat collar to buy, please ignore the seat post diameter as it's irrelevant. Please measure the outside diameter of the frame's seat tube where the clamp will be.

Set #SH38 Single (for Alfine solid axle rear)

Set #SH38 is for the Bolt-On Alfine and Nexus rear hubs. 17mm wrench flats.

Set #SH38 Single: $ 25.00

Not compatible with Dura Ace track hubs since the axle has a different thread.

Set #SH90 Double (solid axle front)

Set #SH90 is for the Bolt-On Shimano front hubs with 9mm axles. The "Double" version gives you two Pitlock nuts, one for each side. You only need one to prevent the theft of your front wheel but having Pitlock nuts on both sides will frustrate thieves so much, their heads will explode. And what could be more entertaining than that?

Also, if you use only one Pitlock nut, you'll need two wrenches to remove your wheel; the 15mm wrench for the axle nut Shimano uses, and a 17mm wrench for the Pitlock. Better to carry just one wrench, I think.

Set #SH90 Double: $ 30.00

Set #SH90 Single (solid axle front)

Same as above but just one nut to save money. 17mm wrench flats.

Set #SH90 Single: $ 25.00

Set 17 Thru-Axle for Rock Shox / Maxle - 1 Pit

• dimensions: 15 x 100 mm
• installation width: 100 mm
• total length: 148 mm
• thread length: 20 mm
• thread pitch: M15 x 1,5 mm
• weight: 82 g
• for fork with tube diameter: 32 mm/ 35 mm

Set 17, Part # PITP170000, Price: $ 25.00

Set 18 for Fox - 1 Pit

• dimensions: 15 x 100 mm
• total length: 148 mm
• thread length: 14 mm
• thread pitch: 1,5 mm
• axle length (without head): 145mm
• for fork with tube diameter: 32/34 mm
• required contact surface: 22mm
• weight: 85gr
• color: black

Set 18, Part # PITP180000, Price: $ 25.00

Set 19 for Stevens - 1 Pit

• dimensions: 15 x 100 mm
• total lengthwithout head: 133,2 mm
• thread length: 15 mm
• thread pitch: 1,5 mm
• required contact surface: 22mm
• weight: 87g
• color: black

Set 20 Thru-Axle Rear Maxle - 1 Pit

Set 20, Part # PITP200000, Price: $ 25.00

Set 21 Thru-Axle for Suntour (MTB) - 1 Pit

• installation width: 15 x 100 mm
• axle length: 140 mm
• total axle length: 160 mm
• weight: 100 g
• contact surface for the lock: 19 mm

Set 21, Part # PITP210000, Price: $ 25.00

Set 22 Thru-Axle 15mm for Suntour (Trekking - QLoc) - 1 Pit

• Installation width: 15 x 100 mm
• Axle length (without head and lock): 120 mm
• Weight: 90 g
• necessary contact surface for the lock: 19 mm